upgrading speaker crossovers

The 100mf caps and most likely a large inductor, are used to cross over the 10" woofer to the midrange driver.

Manufacturers are in business, first and foremost, to make money and that's why they use electrolytics. Specific values are chosen with the intention of blending each driver into the next one, while operating those drivers within their optimal frequency range. Aside from that, to many manufacturers, parts are parts.

Upgrading to better coils, resistors and caps should give you a more refined sound and probably eliminate some grain and glare.

If you're going to keep the PSB's I'd definitely think about replacing the tweeter. That's if you can find one with similar specs and it fits the existing cut-out. Sorry, but I hate metal dome tweeters. I've yet to hear one that didn't have a bit of sizzle and hardness on top.

Also, I'd stay away from tweeters with ferrofluid, which is what you have now. It's only purpose is to provide additional protection from idiots who do dumb things like clip their amp or short their speaker cables. Manufacturers hate warranty expenses and some go overboard to avoid it. There are resistors on the tweeters that provide all the protection you need. Unfortunately, they too reduce dynamics and often impose a fine layer of grain over the music.

I've not looked at the PSB Stratus Gold i's crossovers directly. I have looked at their design several years ago, seems I recall they were 4th order tweeter mid. The most dramatic change will be with any cap that is in the positive line in the tweeter or mid. Even though they are metalized polyprop, A polystyrene or Teflon in the tweeter/mid would make a larger difference than changing electrolytics out that are in compensation circuitry. It is not a bad move to replace the electrolytics, but depending on where they are, you might or might not notice much difference. Upgrading to better resistors is normally a good move also, but I have to disagree with changing inductor coils. Many coils have the resistance measured into the circuit and are part of the design. If you change a coil without properly compensating for the resistance, you could easily cause a more harm than good, many times alignment is thrown off and you get a smear in imaging and placement. This is all accurage information, I hope it helps, Tim

It makes an enormous difference. There is a very good range of Scottish speakers called Art. In their better ranges they offer each speaker in 3 grades of crossover, useing high grade capacitors and silver wire etc. You are quite literally, listening to a different speaker. The cost difference is enormous too. The Deco 10 goes from £10000 to £20000 with the upgrades. I queried the cost with a dealer, who said there is 40pounds weight of high grade silver alone in the crossovers.

Lou over at Daedalus Audio, is offering upgraded crossovers on his speakers. I have'nt compared them side to side, but those that have say there is a big difference. A word of warning, I dont think it is a matter of slinging any higher grade cap into the crossover. I am sure Lou spent months trying different capacitors by ear, before he made the change.

Why would it not be just a matter of slinging a higher grade cap into the crossover. if the values are the same, shouldnt they electrically do the same thing and then its just a matter of the better cap doing the same thing better?

Well a lot of good feedback. I ordered Mundorf Supreme caps to replace the two film caps on each crossover. Basically the same value but I am sure better quality. I am counting on smoother highs and a little more bloom in the midrange. These caps look like they are in line with the mids and tweets. I can now say that after upgrading my equipment I know what better quality caps can do. Trying to replace the tweeters could be a challenge because of the cut out, so I am hoping that the caps will do the job. They are in the mail so I expect to get them this week and do the change over this weekend. As for the electorlytics it does look like they are for the bass section, I can always pull one and check it out to see if the values are still correct and if not maybe get a better electrolytic to replace them, just thinking. And of course now I cannot use my turntable to listen as the needle in the cartidge is no longer there. Its a MC that came with it, Music Hall MMF 7. I am not sure if it is worth puting a new cartidge in it or getting a VPI Classic, which is more money, that I was not counting on spending after having my amp and preamp upgraded, but this is a different subject.