Emerald Physics history and model progression

I had EP KCIIs that I paid extra for the factory to upgrade with Clarity Cap and Wire World OCC. While really nice in a much smaller room,  they could not fill my very large room, even with 2 @ 12" SVS powered subs. I replaced them with 3.4s with XO upgrades. These are really amazing, but still need the 2 subs in my room. Now. I have a pair of 2.8s coming which in addition to the same 12" concentric drivers there are 2 @ 15" carbon fiber woofers per cabinet. Hoping they will eliminate the need for the subs.


Both the KCIIs and 3.4s come stock with crap wiring. The 3.4s wiring is inside the 2 sandwiched sections, but, the jumper wire to the external XO is easy to access and needs to be upgraded. I recommend ~ 2ft of wires per connector to get the XO off the speaker base, which vibrates like crazy. I chose WW OCC for this. THE IMPROVEMENT IS NOT SUBTLE

This line has been discontinued, and the factory blew out the remaining inventory at stupid low prices. You can find used pairs at great prices


hth

Attempting to decipher model numbers, seems the least to best progression is
KC - CS - EP (EP being best/most expensive). With regard to numbering pattern, lower prefix is better, and higher suffix is later generation. Example, best latest model is EP-2.8, while an older lowest model might be KC-9.0.
I'm not sure about the KC vs. CS (which is better?). Also, (I don't think it's this simple, but) where do they intersect? As an example, what level/generation of EP is equivalent to what level/generation of CS? Another way to ask this is... Do later model CS or KC outperform earlier model EP?

Thanks for info so far. About the wire... is there anything preventing pulling new wire?  Are they secured in an inaccessible baffle sandwich?

@mwatsme
You may be onto something with model numbering/differentiating, but I don't know.

Email Walter for the 411

I'm interested in this as well.  Also curious about how the earlier Clayton Shaw era models (CS2, CS2.3, CS2.7) compare to the subsequent generations from the Underwood ownership (CS and EP series). 

As to pulling better wire. I just looked. Yes it is possible, as the 4 binding post mounting plate near the bottom has 6 screws (on the 3.4s it is a concentric driver, meaning 2 sets of wire). As to pulling new wire, it would need to be thin-ish to get both through the hole. That said, the wire from the speaker to the binding post is much thicker than the crap wire provided to jump to the XO. One could also simply run new thicker wire outside the back plate


hth