I have no opinion as I have not read the review, however it may be sample variation, as you have surmised, because Stereo Magazine found that it measured well
https://stereo-magazine.com/archive/articles?tx_archive_pi1%5Baction%5D=download&tx_archive_pi1%5Barticle%5D=69341&tx_archive_pi1%5Bcontroller%5D=Archive&cHash=b63605b6cab9c40ddc6dbc5e2d1dd3ed
‘Low distortion, low noise, high bandwidth and
an enormous attenuation factor for a tube amplifier.’
Hope this helps.
Did they measure-the same one they reviewed?
https://stereo-magazine.com/archive/articles?tx_archive_pi1%5Baction%5D=download&tx_archive_pi1%5Barticle%5D=69341&tx_archive_pi1%5Bcontroller%5D=Archive&cHash=b63605b6cab9c40ddc6dbc5e2d1dd3ed
‘Low distortion, low noise, high bandwidth and
an enormous attenuation factor for a tube amplifier.’
Hope this helps.
Did they measure-the same one they reviewed?