Millercarbon's Mega Moab Mod Meander


One of the all time great automotive engineers, Norbert Singer, was a key player in every one of the 16 Porsche LeMans victories from 1970 to 1998. His dominance was such that at one point Porsche had won LeMans more than all other marques combined. This was all accomplished by building on the already solid foundation of Porsche production models. The air cooled flat 12 in the 917 was really two flat sixes combined to make 12. This car so dominated motorsport the rules had to be changed to stop it!  

So Norbert Singer modified Porsche production technology to extract the absolute most for racing. His legacy is today’s Singer Vehicle Design https://singervehicledesign.com Norbert doesn’t make for a very good car name so they called it Singer. What is a Singer? It is a modified Porsche. It is in essence a hot rod. What Norbert Singer did was make the most hot rod racing Porsche. What Singer does is take that to the next level, capturing every aspect of Porsche right down to excellence of design and aesthetics.  

I am not anywhere near the level of Singer. But that is the spirit of what we are doing: taking an already world-class design and hot-rodding it to be even better. Well, better for me anyway- or so we hope!

The early modders started with substituting off the shelf parts to get more power or less weight. That is pretty much all we are doing here. Would be cool if some day people are doing this with a lot more sophisticated approach. Maybe they will. Maybe even I will. For now though we have the current crossover project.

My approach is pretty simple: better parts sound better.  

This lesson was learned back in the late 90’s with Linaeum Model 10 speakers. The designer had a new tweeter and told me how to modify the crossover for it. Simple mod, one cap, one resistor. Bought the parts from Radio Shack, put it together, sounded like crap. Absolute horrid crap! Called him up, he said those parts are crap. Said Musicap, Vishay. But they measure the same? Just do it. I did. It worked. Even though they measure exactly the same, the sound difference is off the charts.  

Even though they measure exactly the same. There is a lesson here. For those willing to learn.

So this is the essence of it: Eric Alexander has made a speaker the equivalent of a Porsche 911. Even better: an affordable Porsche 911! But after a while with my 911, after learning what makes it drive and feel the way it does, it was only natural to change the shocks and torsion bar and other items to bring out even more of what I like so much about the 911.  

That is what we are doing here. Hot-rodding a speaker. Thank you Rick for the metaphor!  

The parts are on order. Next week the fun begins!
128x128millercarbon
@ oldhvymec  - yeah, external is the best if you can get away with it.
Always compromises though, like using a stereo amplifier the speaker wire runs need to be longer than two mono blocks.

The wire runs will be longer of course. Are you going to shield yours coming out of your x-over?

The driver's magnetic field when the driver is under load, does that change?
I ask because generally the magnet is attached at the rear of the basket, I had always assumed it was a constant magnetic field, and the motor has an electromagnet that changes polarity to drive the cone?

I have suggested MC use variable resistors to test it, before finalising the values in each circuit. I do realise that one could spend a lot of time doing that.


@gulpson Be a man and just walk away.

You fan the flames of the Millercarbon and it makes you small.

You need a real hobby besides Millercarbon trolling.

Not very becoming. You appear to be intelligent yet you keep coming back for more.


I see you've decided to simply ignore the fact miller fans his own flames.
Why is that? I am genuinely interested in knowing.
@chicagoblue1977

Glupson is a popular and knowledgeable Audiogon poster. Your criticism and negative perception of him are off the wall.
A lot of people wondering why the crossover will be INSIDE. 😉
Well mostly it will be inside because I am a low hanging fruit kind of guy. Try not to make things harder than they need to be. Yes, for sure there are advantages to an outboard crossover, and it could even sound better if properly implemented. 

Right now the signal from the amp goes through 9 feet of the finest speaker cable I ever heard, Townshend F1. From the terminals there's only one or two feet of Eric's "military spec" internal wire. If I go external then I need first to find a couple feet of F1 quality wire to go from the crossover to the terminals. Only now instead of just +/- terminals I need ones for all the driver connections. So external crossover means removing the existing terminal and replacing it with something else. Or running the wires through that opening. Something like that. Either way it means finding F1 quality wire, or otherwise losing in wire what was gained going outboard.

I think a lot of the outboard motivation comes from vibration control, and the convenience of tinkering and tweaking. Well, I am handling vibration control by mounting the whole thing on a BDR Shelf on Townshend Pods. And I am tweaking and tinkering to the nine's already. Also I know speakers are all different but with these when the lower woofer is removed the crossover sits right behind it, just not all that hard to work on it if really necessary.

Internal wiring is on the table for some future project. When I look at all those wires, and how they are routed, and what they are, it is clear that however good this thing sounds with the new crossover it can be a whole lot better still with some premium wire. But reality check: 17 drivers. 34 solder connections. God knows what sort of wiring configuration to figure out. Per speaker. 

Let's get this sorted out. Then we will see.