A lot of people wondering why the crossover will be INSIDE. 😉
Well mostly it will be inside because I am a low hanging fruit kind of guy. Try not to make things harder than they need to be. Yes, for sure there are advantages to an outboard crossover, and it could even sound better if properly implemented.
Right now the signal from the amp goes through 9 feet of the finest speaker cable I ever heard, Townshend F1. From the terminals there's only one or two feet of Eric's "military spec" internal wire. If I go external then I need first to find a couple feet of F1 quality wire to go from the crossover to the terminals. Only now instead of just +/- terminals I need ones for all the driver connections. So external crossover means removing the existing terminal and replacing it with something else. Or running the wires through that opening. Something like that. Either way it means finding F1 quality wire, or otherwise losing in wire what was gained going outboard.
I think a lot of the outboard motivation comes from vibration control, and the convenience of tinkering and tweaking. Well, I am handling vibration control by mounting the whole thing on a BDR Shelf on Townshend Pods. And I am tweaking and tinkering to the nine's already. Also I know speakers are all different but with these when the lower woofer is removed the crossover sits right behind it, just not all that hard to work on it if really necessary.
Internal wiring is on the table for some future project. When I look at all those wires, and how they are routed, and what they are, it is clear that however good this thing sounds with the new crossover it can be a whole lot better still with some premium wire. But reality check: 17 drivers. 34 solder connections. God knows what sort of wiring configuration to figure out. Per speaker.
Let's get this sorted out. Then we will see.
Well mostly it will be inside because I am a low hanging fruit kind of guy. Try not to make things harder than they need to be. Yes, for sure there are advantages to an outboard crossover, and it could even sound better if properly implemented.
Right now the signal from the amp goes through 9 feet of the finest speaker cable I ever heard, Townshend F1. From the terminals there's only one or two feet of Eric's "military spec" internal wire. If I go external then I need first to find a couple feet of F1 quality wire to go from the crossover to the terminals. Only now instead of just +/- terminals I need ones for all the driver connections. So external crossover means removing the existing terminal and replacing it with something else. Or running the wires through that opening. Something like that. Either way it means finding F1 quality wire, or otherwise losing in wire what was gained going outboard.
I think a lot of the outboard motivation comes from vibration control, and the convenience of tinkering and tweaking. Well, I am handling vibration control by mounting the whole thing on a BDR Shelf on Townshend Pods. And I am tweaking and tinkering to the nine's already. Also I know speakers are all different but with these when the lower woofer is removed the crossover sits right behind it, just not all that hard to work on it if really necessary.
Internal wiring is on the table for some future project. When I look at all those wires, and how they are routed, and what they are, it is clear that however good this thing sounds with the new crossover it can be a whole lot better still with some premium wire. But reality check: 17 drivers. 34 solder connections. God knows what sort of wiring configuration to figure out. Per speaker.
Let's get this sorted out. Then we will see.