So done with audiophile fuses


The journey started with a medium priced ($50) fuse in my power supply.  A failed rectifier tube blew that one out.  Not a fuse problem.  Next up was a blue fuse in my pre amp.  It blew and was not caused by a pre amp problem.  Apparently they sometimes are more sensitive and it was replaced by an orange fuse two values higher.  Things were going along fine.  I replaced the pre amp with a newer version of the pre amp and it has the same fuse value.  Five months latter (today) I turn on the pre amp and nothing.  it's a five month old pre amp so I suspected that it was the fuse.  Sure enough, I replaced it with a ceramic Littelfuse of the lower correct value it works fine.  No more wasting my money on unstable fuses for me.     
goose
That, of course, is the perplexing part.  While I don't Know and won’t say that fuses have no effect whatsoever on the sound of a system, I still can’t buy that the magnitude of the effect (or improvement, or whatever) would be great enough to make me want to spend big money on a fuse.
The great part of it is that you needn't spend anywhere near the cost of a SR fuse or something even more dear in price. There are still some HiFi Tuning Silver Star fuses to be had (in dwindling numbers) for a fraction of what they initially went for. Maybe one of a value you need is still available.

I've personally tried about 4 different brands and they all had a distinct sound characteristic and didn't cost that much to experiment with. I'm of the opinion that a fuse made up of metals that are on par with what you'd use in a cable are the way to go and to stop using the cheap, low cost fuses made out of a witches brew of poorly conductive metals.

All the best,
Nonoise


low cost fuses made out of a witches brew of poorly conductive metals.

This is just something someone would say that has absolutely no idea.

You need to be schooled in Ohm’s law/s, Kirchoff’s laws etc etc
They have to have a certain level of resistance, (as you say "poor conductively"), to blow at a certain amperage drawn through them. If they didn’t they would never blow!!!

I’m of the opinion that a fuse made up of metals that are on par with what you’d use in a cable are the way to go
🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ OMG!! fuse has to have resistance to blow.

I’ve personally tried about 4 different brands and they all had a distinct sound
Just more fuser snake oil voodoo talk from someone who’s out there in fairy land.
@georghifi....Wait to see how long until your post gets deleted....3...2...1...🤣🤣🤣😉


You two kids just don’t seem to get it and rely now on insults and other asinine statements just to get by with now that you’ve lost all credibility.

I don’t know about you, edgewoundtootightly, but georgie knows full well that I’ve stated stated and linked sites to high rupturing fuses that use strictly copper, silver and other highly conductive metals. They’ve been around for ages and are used in professional equipment like you’d see in hospitals. labs, military gear, aviation and space applications. They’re not expensive at all and perform at tighter tolerances than the junk georgie blows through on a constant basis.

I’ve also put it out there that some audio enthusiasts might have simply caught onto these types of fuses and began marketing them for themselves or had them made for them and/or adapted them for their own purposes, with HiFi Tuning and Mundorf teaming together to make their own line. It’s not that hard to get your head around, or is it?

That, and it’s pathetic that georgie has to cite various "laws" to support his over the top responses. Didn’t work before and it’s not working now.

All the best,
Nonoise
I'm in the process of modifying one of my extra amps. No fuses after the power switch. I haven't had problems blowing fuses, but it WILL be a fire hazard...