Silver Head Shell Leads

Yes, aluminum IS the problem. Just surprised it reacted with gold.

Goofyfoot, you can do whatever you like but any sonic difference between any of the wires is imaginary. You are better off getting a tonearm without a removable head shell and ditching that connection entirely. Gets rid of unnecessary mass located in the worst place you can imagine right at the end of the tonearm.  

As for metals you have to study the galvanic table. Metals that are at opposite ends of the table cannot be put together. The more cathodic (noble) metal will always win at the expense of the more anodic metal.
If you put Gold and aluminum together the aluminum will corrode. 
 https://www.google.com/search?q=galvanic+chart+metals&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS869US869&tbm=isch&...
Plain steel and aluminum are close together in the chart and work nicely together and you see this done in cars all the time. But, look where stainless steel is! Way at the bottom or cathodic side. It will corrode plain steel and aluminum. Stainless steel exhaust systems are a PITA for this reason. I have to replace the header bolts in my 911 every two years because they literally melt! You can't use stainless bolts in an aluminum head! (I drive the car in the Winter.) 

mijostyn, I've been hoping to replace that TP-16 tonearm for t least six years now but have yet to come up with the expendable income. It's always something. Anyway, when I do get to that place, the Sorane TA 1 is what I'm thinking about however it comes with a detachable head shell. It's about $1,600.00

Every arm I own has a detachable headshell, lets me setup and swap cartridges a lot easier. I'm partial to the Victor UA series and the Micro Seiki arms, the better ones use a collet type system that locks and grips the headshell very securely. As long as the contact pins are clean I don't worry about some theoretical signal degradation.  They have always worked fine for me.

BillWojo