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Older vs. newer REL subs

Looking for any reports about older vs. newer REL subs.

I have a REL 328 (ca. 2013) which I bought used. It's a good sub.

https://www.hifiplus.com/articles/rel-r-328-subwoofer/

I would like to upgrade to stereo subs and I've found (finally) another REL 328 which would match mine. But, before I drop coin on that, I'm wondering if anyone has had experience comparing their older REL with a newer one. What's changed? What's better, worse, or the same? I'm considering the T7x and T9x lines.

Hoping for apples to apples comparisons, vis a vis driver size, type of sub (e.g. level of product line, sealed vs. ported, music vs. HT etc.) but whatever old vs. newer comparison you have much appreciated. 

Thanks.
128x128hilde45
nmmusicman
276 posts
 
The best upgrade one can do for an older ST series REL is to replace the rail caps with Mundorf caps and double up the resistance wattage capacity on R7 resistor which is a known failure point on older REL's.
hilde45's avatar
hilde45 OP
5,066 posts
 
@arafiq Great questions! Thanks. And I'm glad to know the newer are beating out the older. I'm leaning heavily to the T/9 series. The other tempting thing for me is the value of a Rythmik sub, which people seem to love and it gives more control over integration, which could be important. Just love how those RELs look. Um, um.
wolf_garcia
6,734 posts
 
A Goodwin's High End sales guy recently told me he thought the series RELs I own were excellent...but then, what does he know? I haven't compared them to new ones of course, but if they explode I just might.
nmmusicman
276 posts
 
My apologies to everyone, it is R8 that is the resistor that is the known failure point on older REL’s. 
missioncoonery
1,237 posts
 
Hilde45...its not for me to do your homework but ive bought 2 S510 for 2 grand  each delivered from 2 different Rel dealers within the past month, most will discount $250.00 before you even say hello.So with the free shipping they were actually less than 2 grand a pop...if your willing to spend 1500 on a T series sub why wouldn't you go the extra and get a S series (thats very close to their reference level as opposed to their entry line)?
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