So done with audiophile fuses


The journey started with a medium priced ($50) fuse in my power supply.  A failed rectifier tube blew that one out.  Not a fuse problem.  Next up was a blue fuse in my pre amp.  It blew and was not caused by a pre amp problem.  Apparently they sometimes are more sensitive and it was replaced by an orange fuse two values higher.  Things were going along fine.  I replaced the pre amp with a newer version of the pre amp and it has the same fuse value.  Five months latter (today) I turn on the pre amp and nothing.  it's a five month old pre amp so I suspected that it was the fuse.  Sure enough, I replaced it with a ceramic Littelfuse of the lower correct value it works fine.  No more wasting my money on unstable fuses for me.     
goose
Do you see Pass, Curl, Cary, Mcintosh, or any of THOSE folks coming out of NASA, or NEC, or the FDA, or Brain or Heart surgeon Professorships? WTF.

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NEC? FDA?  ... You should have stopped at NASA, though they have had their fare share of failures ver the years.

There is some complexity to modern stereos especially when you consider what is buried inside a sigma-delta DAC, or the latest Class-D, or the semiconductors powering the system, or the capacitors. However, most are just throwing together building blocks, but it took 100 years for people at THX to come up with some new architectural stuff to reduce SNR/THD.

The top speaker/driver companies are no dummies either. There is a lot of good science and engineering there too.

Most of what NASA does is applied. The real research goes on in places like JPL, and university labs.
molingus
... here's some constructive criticism, based on the assumption that, in order to sound remotely palatable, audiophile grade amps need AC mains to supply perfect platonic ideal archetypical sine waves, like god's flatulence ...
I have no idea what you are talking about and, I suspect, neither do you. Such nonsense.
@molingus Ahem. In what 3rd world country do you all live where shorting a fuse in an audio amp starts your hovel on fire? Move into the modern world, where our buildings have code, and our breaker boxes have, uhhh, breakers installed.

It is a mis conception that a faulty component that takes damage when its fuse does not blow, will instantly trip a 15A or 20A circuit breaker before enough damage is done to start a fire in the component. In most cases it will not. If your faulty component doesn't blow a 10A fuse (where there should have been a 3A or 5A fuse) before causing damage or fire, don't expect it to trip a 20A circuit breaker.......Jim
@molingus My point being, the danger of fire is in or at the component itself not wether or not it causes enough overload at the outlet or anyplace in the circuit to trip the breaker before causing a fire in the wall.

I agree, at any rate, if your component is blowing fuses, something is wrong and it needs to be fixed., not band aided with a bigger fuse or breaker.

I also agree that components are designed and built (with few exceptions) with a power supply thats job is to make that component operate and sound as intended, using the power supplied by any particular country’s energy suppliers without having to add thousands of dollars of fancy outlets, cables and magic fuses.

If I paid $20K for an amp and it didn't sound incredible with the cable/cord and fuses it came with, I'd send the sucker back and get something else.....Jim