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Best tube amp for electrostatic speakers

For over 35 years I've almost exclusively used either ribbons or electrostats with solid state amplification and have been generally happy with the sound. Over the last several years, though, my hearing has become somewhat degraded and more sensitive to certain frequencies. The frequencies which seem to cause the most discomfort occur in the 1400 to 1900Hz range and come across as "bright" to my hearing. After researching this matter and having been given some expert advice, I've decided to pursue the idea of replacing my present amplification equipment with tube based gear.

The purpose of this post, then, is to solicit advice regarding the best approach to making this decision based on the following information: the current basic equipment is Shanling Solid state CD player, Peachtree Audio Nova used as preamp, two DBX 1531 EQ's to help compensate for age related hearing loss, Peachtree 220 amp, Silversonic T114 cable and Martin Logan Ethos speakers.

The listening area is our living room measuring 15 by 22 feet with my listening position 16 feet from the plane of the 2 speakers which are positioned 11 feet apart measured center to center. Located between the 2 speakers is an entertainment center which is about 9 feet wide. My listening interests are varied from solo guitar and light jazz to occasional orchestral music. I don't generally listen at high volumes and am not particularly interested in strong bass except for the rare action movie background.

Unless not advisable for some reason, I would like to keep the Peachtree Nova as a preamp because of the significant latitude for source connection and what seems to have a decent internal DAC. If this option would substantially defeat the purpose of the intended modification I would work around it. I can no longer deal with sounds that are "bright" which I now find uncomfortable but detailed sound is very important.

So, the questions are: is the move to tubes the best option and, if so, what might be some reasonably priced amps that could accomplish the goal. This, of course, would take into consideration room size, etc. for determining power requirements. If there are other more practical and less expensive options to consider, I would appreciate that advice as well.
128x128broadstone
atmasphere's avatar
atmasphere
11,800 posts
 
Uh, George, please read the thread through (beginning with the title of the thread) rather than just jumping in in the end.

First, this thread is about what tube amps can be used and is not about solid state.

As explained earlier:

Martin-Logans have a very low impedance at high frequencies as you know- we went through that early on. To use any tube amp with them, a set of ZEROs is recommended
http://www.zeroimpedance.com

This eliminates the rather ridiculously low impedance (0.5 ohm) high frequency problem.

Once this issue is dealt with your comments are rendered moot as the ZEROs level the playing field.
broadstone's avatar
broadstone OP
310 posts
 
In the several years that I've participated in these forums these are some of the most comprehensive and cogent responses that I've read. Even though some explanations are stretching my ability I greatly appreciate them and thank you for your willingness to share it.

The pink noise test revealed something that I otherwise may have continued to overlook as an important factor. I described the phenomenon of moving back from the speakers toward my listening position while listening to out-of-phase pink noise (actually, any out-of-phase frequencies) noting that the sound moved incrementally to the right. If I change my listening position to about 5 feet closer to the speakers, then, this migration of sound becomes less perceptible. I know that room acoustics is important but is it possible that it could be so dramatic?

It was pointed out that my system is anything but reference grade or state of the art but, unless I'm missing something, I fail to see why this is pertinent to my inquiry. I know enough about my setup to realize this and if one couples this with the fact that I don't have a dedicated listening room, the challenges are many. Hence, my requests for help.

As an aside, the problem with certain frequencies is little different from when I was using a Rogue Audio Sphinx amp with ML Odysseys. I made the change of amps about 8 months ago and switched speakers only a couple of months ago. It now seems slightly worse for those offending frequencies but, because I used the Odysseys for about 13 years, I may still be adjusting. Also likely is that the Ethos is supposedly more revealing of what's going on upstream in the system.

To answer one question regarding the comparison of live versus recorded music, especially using the piano for reference, we have a piano and, yes, the same notes either recorded or live create the same discomfort. This fact, of course leads me to the conclusion that it is not a component of my system that is the culprit for at least this issue.

Anyway, when I get some help to access the back of my equipment, I'll remove the equalizers to eliminate that variable before I continue with anymore experimenting.
georgehifi's avatar
georgehifi
10,312 posts
 

Sorry Ralph, but Uh, Uh. Autoformers are a band-aid fix only, after the owner has purchased the wrong amp to begin with, they cause more problems than they fix.

Cheers George
bifwynne
2,206 posts
 
George .... IMO, audio is about compromises. I just bought a DEQX PreMate to correct room effects and improve my speakers time coherence. The device is inserted between my linestage and amp. I am **NOT** happy about inserting any artifact into the signal path, least of all an active component like the PreMATE.

Having said that, the PreMATE adds more than it takes. Same point with Ralph's suggestion on using ZERO's. I think ML is crazy to design a STAT with .5 OHM impedance in the upper frequencies. Why not just short the amp??? If ZEROs can help, even if at some cost, the trade-off may be worth it.

Just sayin'.
georgehifi's avatar
georgehifi
10,312 posts
 

Always best to get the right amp to start with, instead of putting a band-aid fix between it and the speakers.

The most questionable part of a tube amp that uses an output transformer, why put another one in between it and the speaker, if it wasn't the right one to start with.

For the OP's speakers for a tube amp to be a great match, it should have a real 2ohm transformer tap even 1ohm for these. For it not to start behaving like a tone control.

Cheers George
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