Fuse Upgrade to Ceramic not glass


Been researching fuses and see a need to upgrade to Ceramic over glass but don't neccesarily buy into the hoopla over expensive Fuses, I would say getting rid of any glass type for ceramic is the way to go , I truly believe thats what people hear the difference in , ceramic is a much better material for acoustics than a crap glass / thin wire that can Vibrate and be a weak link in my opinion I'm not about to spend a fortune on fuses either a quality ceramic will suffice. Question where does one find out what fuses are in his gear ? I want to figure out what I need for my Marantz before I take it out of my Rack and spend time  , open her up just to figure out what I need is a big time waster. I called marantz they referred me to a svc Dept but they couldn't tell me either , Is there a way to figure out what I need to have it so I can do this project in one shot?? or maybe I have ceramic already and dont know it , breaking my rack down to figure out cant happen.
nickaboy1
It sounds as if you are trying to correct a problem not in evidence. Are there any sonic aberrations you might ascribe to a vibrating fuse?  If you hear nothing wrong, maybe there is nothing wrong.
Looking at pictures of the back of your amplifier, I do not see any provisions for a fuse holder, either integral with the IEC or as a stand-alone cylinder type holder. If there is nothing in your owner’s manual, you will need to pop the top to see if your amp even has fuses.
Some could argue that sand-filled ceramic fuses should better damp any vibrational energy that might affect the sound, and I have replaced most or all of my fuses with those, with the result that nothing much changed. You might get halfway there by simply wrapping some Teflon tape around the glass body of your fuse(s).....if your amp even has fuses.
If you want to get really adventurous, and mitigate all possible risks that vibration of your fuse(s) may be subliminally affecting your enjoyment of your system, then you could drill a small hole in a standard glass fuse and use a tiny hypodermic needle to inject your favorite non-conductive damping material (such as beeswax) into the body of your fuse(s). Or, you could pay Audio Magic $225 for as many of theirs as you need.
BTW, the Hubbell HBL8300H Porter Port outlets recommended by @jea48 do hold power cord plugs securely and sound pretty good. I still use two of them in my system. However, I cannot attest to the additional benefit added by the cryo treatment Albert laid on them.
Miller Carbon , I did see the link of your system but your not telling me anything , Im not a mind reader. you have all this nice stuff but you also have a Maglight and a filing cabinet in the corner with a drape over it with an outdated room and Crap couch , if everything matters start with the room , you have to live in it. and to all the dooschs oh your looking for problems that are not there , why are you even here? there are people selling expensive fuses and people are buying these things and been looking at youtube guys explaining what's really going on and the consensus is yes glass has to go and ceramic is in fact better , do I want to spend $200 on a fuse from SR NO! , inexpensive Ceramic will do just fine , you have to pick your battles put some thought into it and do what you think is right. 
nickaboy1 OP ...

Go to Home Depot and buy an Orange Outlet as "Jea48" showed you in his post. It will be a nice upgrade that you will readily hear.

As to what most of us "in the know" are using, they are Synergistic Research "Orange" fuses. $150 per pop (no pun intended). Is $150 for a simple fuse expensive? Yes, but for what they do, they are well worth the money. 

Question ... If you have already come to the conclusion that "inexpensive ceramic fuses will do just fine," then what is the point of this thread?

Frank
Hello, 
One thing to keep in mind is the amperage of the ceramic fuses. With these high end fuses they usually say to go .25 amps higher than what is in your receiver. They are more sensitive and blow quicker. You can call SR or do your own research. These are typically slow blow fuses. They are not cheap so do a little YT research along with calling SR. On another note unless you have a killer surround sound receiver I feel you do not need this before other things. You need a better power cord. When I put on a Nordost Blue Heaven power cord on my Denon 4806. I thought my system sounded 25%-50% better. If you are trying to make your SS receiver sound like a decent 2 channel system don’t. Except for the Nordost power cord and the orange outlets from Home Depot. The reason I am ok with these upgrades is because they will be good for several components for a very long time. Another thing you should look into is Puritan PSM136 or PSM156 power conditioner. It will change your life. It is not cheep but will last a very, very long time. You know what they say: “Buy once cry once”. When you go to two channel then get into the tweaks. BTW, Try not to burn the bridge with MC, the king of tweaks.  I shop at this store in the Chicagoland area:
https://holmaudio.com/
They let you try most stuff out before you purchase it. Also, yYu might want to stop by this place soon. They have Magnapan MG20s on a PassLab external crossover on for Bel Canto mono blocks. Crazy good! I wish I had the room for the setup. It was very cool to hear the setup. 
After two and a half years of regular use, I blew a fuse in my Don Sachs preamp. Luckily the preamp came with an extra fuse.
It was a standard 1A 3AG slow-blow fuse, like the one that blew, but a different brand with a slightly different/thicker wound filament but nothing special. Slightly odd thing was it was a tighter fit in fuse receptacle. Old one fell out of the receptacle cap...this one would need to be pulled out. Just a minor detail I noticed.

Well it actually does sound better. Now wondering if a ’tired’ fuse is simply what we’re hearing? Can this be possible: old fuse syndrome?