I finally added a second REL Sub


It's taken me years to get to this point.  Subwoofers were 2-channel system blasphemy when I was coming up in the hobby.  As of today, I now have 2, REL T9is.  They are providing sub-bass and filling out the picture for Klipsch Cornwall IVs.  Even with a loudspeaker as massive and efficient as the Cornwall IV, they fill things out nicely.  

How pleasing it was to hear the two in unison.  I run them so low on crossover and volume that the only thing you hear is sweeter more extended highs against a fuller picture down low.  They are simply not audible in their own right.  Yes, it's true--good sub bass management helps treble and midrange.  

As a hack musician of 20 years or so, I can tune them by ear when I hear a well recorded kick drum, bass guitar and horns.  I tried tuning with mics and software but the good ol' ear does very well here.  

If you're on the fence about one or maybe a second you owe it to yourself to try it.  Is SWARM next? Doubtful.  This is, however, very pleasing indeed. 
jbhiller
I’m using two Velodyne HGS-15s to supplement KEF Reference 1s below 80 Hz. LR output from an Ayre KX-5/20 preamp goes to a SMS-1 bass manager that provides acoustic room correction for the HGS-15s. The sound is superb, never aware of the individual speakers.

Now for complications: I have a third HGS-15 and three HGS-10s. It’s been suggested that I use LFE from a Bryson SP3 processor I use for surround (front LR through Ayre by-pass) to the third HGS-15. I could use a second SMS-1 in pass-through mode to the three HGS-15 as a distributed setup.

I had a passive balanced 80 Hz 24 db high-pass filter built to insert between the Ayre preamp and amp, but it seemed to remove just a bit of the sense of air, so I haven’t been using it.

Advice about the subs and/or high-pass would be appreciated.
Golfnutz, ?! 
Thanks for saying my thread is pointless. Yes, if going out and buying gear and setting it up as the mfr suggests is novice and not to your liking, the lions share of posts here are just that. 
I must be an idiot along with others and REL to do this when $300 would give me the same result!  Thank you!!! 



Dear @jbhiller  : @golfnutz and @james633 and @dbphd  are rigth and seems you have a misunderstood about the use of two self powered subs in a stereo home system sound reproduction. Btw, mozartfan is totally wrong on this particular issue

Please read this link:

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/do-you-think-you-need-a-subwoofer/post?postid=310058#310058

Obviously that you need to have true subwoofers that can goes below 20hz and maybe an external crossover that with some subs you could need it and with other manufacturer subs you just do not need it. Just in case:

http://old.bryston.com/products/other/10B-SUB.html


Btw, at your seat position two well integrated subs are enough, you don't need 4 subs and I repeat: at your seat position to listen stereo MUSIC not HT.

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,
R.
@keelyofmb, REL doesn’t make it too easy to tell the exact settings in numerical terms. I’ll add up the hash marks and non adjustment clicks to get you a better answer. For now, they are set with the crossover at about 9 o’clock and volume slightly higher. 
I’m leaning towards even a lower crossover setting with similar volume. In either range they aren’t stepping on the speakers toes.  
I’m curious to try an active crossover. That does seem like more expense and work though. 

@rauliruegas ,  Always good to hear from you Raul.  I think I understand what you are saying. Specifically, you (and your thread) like to hear and see that users allow more overlap on the crossover between what the subwoofer puts out and what the loudspeaker puts out.  I appreciate that.  

I just don't prefer that sound (without using a dedicated external crossover) because I don't want the Class D amps in the subwoofers taking over too much.  I use a tube amp and unless I could cut the loudspeakers off higher with a dedicated crossover, like you suggest, I don't prefer that much overlap.