Upper Level Vintage DD Strenghts and Weaknesses

The following is a timeline for my Journey with TT's and how being a user has shaped my owner ship and the most used designs.

I have used a Garrard 401, that was in a 9 Stone Weight Granite Plinth.
This TT/Plinth is now sold on to a friend and I get to hear it occassionally.

The use of the 401, was on the back burner for a period of time as the new owner went heavily into working with Lenco GL 75's and other Idler Drives from this Brand.
I have heard these projects as works in progress and completed works in many Build Guises and Plinth Designs using different materials to achieve the end product.

I myself own a PTP Solid 9 with a Purpose Produced Speed Controller this model is a variant of a Lenco GL75.

I keep an Idler Drive close by as I have very much enjoyed the TT as a design since the 90's
I probably use a Idler Drive for about 10 Hours per year as a guestimate.
I have been instrumental in introducing TT minded folk to Idler Drives and converting their thoughts that have produced new owner users.
Especially ones who was comparing the Idler Drive Design to a Belt Drive Design. 

I also own a few belt drive TT's that date back to being owned and used in the 90's but these do not really produce much as a stimulation to encourage being used, and I may have used one Model as a 'guestimate' for approx' 30 Hours in the past 10 Years.
I don't get too excited about these type of drives.

I own a DP-80, TTS-8000, Aurex SR-510 , and a SP10-MkII.

Firstly for the OP, Thank You for Pointing out the Platter Bearing Housing/Spindle and Platter /Spindle issues.
I own two TTS 8000's and the Sideways Movement of the Spindle in the housing is known to me.
When the Speed is measured on a Stand Alone Strobe, the fluctuation in speed is seen and a eccentric rotation is being produced. 
Further Investigation has shown that there is also unwanted movement on the Platters Centre Bush to Spindle contact.
When this is present it is not only a record ward that should be of a concern, think of the plate spinner and a plate not given a rotation.
These are issues that can be addressed and in the UK are being addressed for some TTS-8000 Owners and this same support has recently been offered to German Nationality TTS-8000 owners who have not been in denial of the condition.
When a Platter Spindle on a TTS-8000 is removed from the Housing a Scribe has been witnessed engraved into the interference fitted ball at the Spindles Base.
More Grinding to be audibly noticed and another part in need of being serviced.
All that said, the TTS-8000 has been a great TT for me it has made me be fully aware of the pitfalls of buying Vintage, and the measures required to overcome the discoveries being made.
It is because of this that I requested a support from a Engineer and the design to resolve the defects and work produced is being requested by others, as a result of this endevour.

The Aurex SR-510 has a lot going for it, I got into it as it is reported in other places as having a very good Sound Quality, even comparable to Microsieki DD's from similar vintage.
It has a proper lump of Copper for the Motor and was a Top of the Range Model when Vinyl was in a wane.
A lot can be achieved from this Model and potentially the lesser Model the SR-410.

The SP10 Mk II that I own does it for me, it Blows my Socks Off.
It has been fully stripped and rebuilt with a attention on the Platter Bearing as well.
I heard a very similar refurbished model at a Turntable Bake Off and the TT just worked it ws a show stopper. 
A Friend heard mine and now owns more than one, and had had one produced to the same Spec as mine.
Another friend heard mine and the other friends and now owns a SP10R.
Another Friend has been getting a SP10 MKII refurbished as well.
There are dedicated threads to this TT on many forums.
It will not bow down to any TT when treated correctly and the learning being made known about this TT is still producing methods to Transform it to elevated levels above the level of refurbishment that I am familiar with.
My latest endevour for the SP10 MkII is to have a Phosphor Bronze Platter Produced and a matching Periphery Ring.
I can only see myself creating the best for the SP10, the other TT's will be given fair lore to compete, but I can't see them ever taking the Title off the MkII.   

I really like Vintage TT's, but I really really really like my SP10 MkII.   

The original Denon plinth for DP-80 is perfect, all you need is AT-616 Pneumatic insulators (under any plinth, actually), stock feet is garbage. Ask me if you can’t AT-616 them (4 of them designed for weight under 60kg).

Another limiting factor with a TTS-8000 is the Platter.
There are today Japanese Vintage DD TT's with Platters produced from a few differnet metals, but the USP of the Non Standard Platters is the weight.
This as a design has been created in Japan by the Manufactures of DD TT's
Today if investigated, there is an overspill of this method being produced from small scale artisan services.  
A SR-510, DP-80 and SP10 can all have a direct platter exchange, if a alternative approach is desired, then a Part is sourced or produced.  

The TTS-8000 can't really have a New Platter as a direct exchange,
any methods to add weight to the Platter will need to keep the OEM Platter incorporated into the design.
The spindle might need attention as well to allow for certain methods to be used.

The Engineer working on the Phosphor Bronze Platter, is looking into a method to enable one platter to be used on all of  my DD TT's but is aware the SP10 method is the priority and should not be compromised for the sake of the others.   

Vintage DD, Quartz Locked, YEAH!

To me, it’s a visual preference, I like the JVC spinner look more than someone else who prefers the Denon look.

A few Pioneer semi-automatic wood base tempted me, but I went for TT81 in JVC 7 layer 2 arm-board Plinth. Had I known, and where I ended up (3rd arm squeezed in) I might have gone for the rare and bigger plinth with 3 removable arm-boards.

The 7 layer plinths of either Denon or JVC-Victor are terrific, and the real wood veneers are very nice. Some vintage TT’s are wood looking vinyl. No functional difference IF it has the 7 layer construction, just if you care (I like real wood).

I researched, decided the TT81 was the one for me, (actually a TT71 is also quartz locked, I just came across TT81). I typically try for a level below the top, i.e. the more advanced 101 or 801, even if I won the lottery, would give me nothing audibly different, potential problems, decided not to go there.

That Sony (I read about it, I forget, metalized plastic?) deck, even if technically/measurably better on a test bench, didn’t appeal to me, it would reduce the pleasure each and every time I glanced at it. Someone else, it’s the greatest. But then it seems you get a potential bearing problem with their TT’s which I would likely not have been aware of.
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I agree with chakster, add a layer of isolation under any TT, I went for a variation of these below the factory adjustable leveling feet

https://www.amazon.com/Turntable-Equipment-Tuneful-Cables-Audiophile/dp/B076DGD3X2/ref=sr_1_16?dchil...

I was going to conceal them with a skirt, but Donna likes the light coming thru under the TT so maybe I will go for something more attractive.

So far the front runner is going to be a Denon DP80 and possibly a DP75. If I did the DP80 it comes in the Denon DK300 plinth, and that one looks to be pretty well made. This is the one I am considering, although I don't know the tone arm packaged with it. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154156555932

There is another one of these tables with an Audiocraft AC3000 attached in the same plinth and its $400 more. I might see if they will swap arms and I pay the additional monies as that arm is a good buy even though I don't need it for this project. 

The other option is here on Audiogon and that is a DP75 in a VPI plinth. I have owned that combination before, and to be honest the plinth is pretty primitive. Its redeeming feature is that massive top plate. The springs are problematic and no way to tune them. But its an attractive combo, but does not have an arm board. Its drilled for the 401 arm, but the mounting base to the Dynavector DV505 should cover that hole. 

https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisaa94c-denon-dp-75-with-vpi-plinth-oak-turntables


Now if I did buy a DP80 this is my end goal of table. Perhaps not the electrical modifications the person has made, but the plinth is the appearance I want to go for. I suppose I can reuse the DK300 plinth and put another Denon table in there for resale with the less expensive arm if I go that way. But this way the DK300 plinth can be a stand in and allow me to play the table while one like this is built. 

https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/how-to-transform-a-past-master-to-an-object-of-desire.1034/