Upper Level Vintage DD Strenghts and Weaknesses


All of these tables have been discussed in some form or another here over the years. I have read quite a few threads on them, but its a bit difficult to nail this point down.

Basically I am looking for a non-suspended table to install a Dynavector DV505 arm on, and these tables can fit the bill.

The most widely available is a Denon DP 75 or DP 80 in a Denon plinth, and they are perhaps the most affordable also. Are there any of their plinths that are desirable, or are they just a veneered stack of MDF or plywood?

While more expensive I can find a Sony TTS8000 in a Resinamic plinth although shipping from HK is expensive. There is one thread I came across here where a member who restores tables says two of the three TTS8000 he has done had play in the spindle assembly which looked to be wear in the brass bushings of the motor. That does make me pause in concern.

The JVC TT101 is not only difficult to find, its apparently a bit of a bear to get serviced, so its not high on the list.

The Technics SP 10 MK II I have owned, and its a nice table but to be honest I had a Denon DP75 that I felt actually sounded better. Also the models that are out there are either abused or have a premium price tag attached to them. Also I don’t need instant torque, and I think the bi-servo designs might offer better speed control.

As I write this the Denon and Sony seem to be at the top of the list, unless there is another I should be looking at.
neonknight
Vintage DD, Quartz Locked, YEAH!

To me, it’s a visual preference, I like the JVC spinner look more than someone else who prefers the Denon look.

A few Pioneer semi-automatic wood base tempted me, but I went for TT81 in JVC 7 layer 2 arm-board Plinth. Had I known, and where I ended up (3rd arm squeezed in) I might have gone for the rare and bigger plinth with 3 removable arm-boards.

The 7 layer plinths of either Denon or JVC-Victor are terrific, and the real wood veneers are very nice. Some vintage TT’s are wood looking vinyl. No functional difference IF it has the 7 layer construction, just if you care (I like real wood).

I researched, decided the TT81 was the one for me, (actually a TT71 is also quartz locked, I just came across TT81). I typically try for a level below the top, i.e. the more advanced 101 or 801, even if I won the lottery, would give me nothing audibly different, potential problems, decided not to go there.

That Sony (I read about it, I forget, metalized plastic?) deck, even if technically/measurably better on a test bench, didn’t appeal to me, it would reduce the pleasure each and every time I glanced at it. Someone else, it’s the greatest. But then it seems you get a potential bearing problem with their TT’s which I would likely not have been aware of.
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I agree with chakster, add a layer of isolation under any TT, I went for a variation of these below the factory adjustable leveling feet

https://www.amazon.com/Turntable-Equipment-Tuneful-Cables-Audiophile/dp/B076DGD3X2/ref=sr_1_16?dchil...

I was going to conceal them with a skirt, but Donna likes the light coming thru under the TT so maybe I will go for something more attractive.
So far the front runner is going to be a Denon DP80 and possibly a DP75. If I did the DP80 it comes in the Denon DK300 plinth, and that one looks to be pretty well made. This is the one I am considering, although I don't know the tone arm packaged with it. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154156555932

There is another one of these tables with an Audiocraft AC3000 attached in the same plinth and its $400 more. I might see if they will swap arms and I pay the additional monies as that arm is a good buy even though I don't need it for this project. 

The other option is here on Audiogon and that is a DP75 in a VPI plinth. I have owned that combination before, and to be honest the plinth is pretty primitive. Its redeeming feature is that massive top plate. The springs are problematic and no way to tune them. But its an attractive combo, but does not have an arm board. Its drilled for the 401 arm, but the mounting base to the Dynavector DV505 should cover that hole. 

https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisaa94c-denon-dp-75-with-vpi-plinth-oak-turntables


Now if I did buy a DP80 this is my end goal of table. Perhaps not the electrical modifications the person has made, but the plinth is the appearance I want to go for. I suppose I can reuse the DK300 plinth and put another Denon table in there for resale with the less expensive arm if I go that way. But this way the DK300 plinth can be a stand in and allow me to play the table while one like this is built. 

https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/how-to-transform-a-past-master-to-an-object-of-desire.1034/
It’s top quality and heavy plinth, DP-80 is a killer DD, you just need a decent lightweight mat (I use modern Graphite mat on my DP-80).

If you never tried original Denon plinth you have no idea what is it, it’s better than you can expect!
Do not try to make Denon look like Micro Seiki with that ugly plinth for 3 tonearms. 

Just respect the aesthetic of Denon, it’s proper engineering from plinth to turntables, tonearms and cartridges.


@chakster 

"It’s top quality and heavy plinth, DP-80 is a killer DD, you just need a decent lightweight mat" 

then

" Just respect the aesthetic of Denon, it’s proper engineering from plinth to turntables, tonearms and cartridges."

So how can Denon have proper engineering in all aspects and then not do the mat right? Seem to be contradicting yourself here. 

Eh I will do what works for me on the plinth. You may not care for the aesthetics, but not everyone has to like the same things. You do you. 


Most of the vintage Japanese DD turntables were sold with thick floppy rubber mats. Most sound better with replacement modern mats of one kind or another. This is just a common observation borne of a common experience. It’s not evidence of a design flaw. I agree that the DP80 or DP75 is best bang for the buck. However beware of examples that were built for 100V AC in japan and then subjected to 120V in the US. Such abuse can have damaged the single IC in the control circuit. 100V models are absolutely fine otherwise but you need a step down transformer. The OEM plinth is also ok; I had a slate plinth with an isolating suspension made for mine.