testing a crossover

In one photo I can read 3.9uf/250V. When you drew and label the components on the circuit board the 4.2uf should have been 3.9?

I don’t know it’s can be of any help, you can find the xover schematic here:

https://ucarecdn.audiogon.com/a89e98dd-d4a0-4acf-9f74-934683ea9b70/-/autorotate/yes/

@likklegerry-    re: Your first post on this page:

 "Diode test on mid/high -OL
when reversed is flashes 2.2xx,then goes to OL
every time i reverse leads it flashes something {2.2xx}not sure its voltage,it doesnt tell me that"

      Only here to address that question, as I didn't notice any other answer (just FYI/fun facts).

       A non/bipolar cap, when presented with DC, will charge in one direction.  Reverse the polarity and it will discharge and charge in the opposite direction.

            That's what your DMM is reading, for that brief instant.

       As an experiment: Connect a non/bipolar cap in series with a speaker.    Don't use a tweeter, unless it's expendable.

        Touch a 9V battery's + post to the open lead of the cap and -, to the open speaker terminal.    Hold it there, for a few seconds.     Longer: the greater the cap's values

         Reverse those connections and you'll hear a *POP, every time.

                                        *The cap, discharging

thank you all guys i am so honoured for all your help,but i think i am going to go for the simple fact,that,i think all these problems may have started when i changed out all the caps,on the cross over,im going to find the old ones which i removed,check there values again ,against the schematic i have uploaded ,and maybe ask you guys if they are compatible/same,like for like to do the job,i received a private email,that explained that they maybe different,although i did get them from Wilmslow audio and stated they where for an upgrade for my speakers,but it just might be worth trying the obvious stuff first,as soon after the change out,is when this problem started,2 years ago.still dont understand why it works with only one power only though,and not two.weird.
Just to answer your last question though.

pragmasi,the the binding posts holder is plastic,no short there.
i connect the speakers via two cables{pairs]to a four post bi-wire termial posts,in one amp mode,i use the same cables and posts ,but use the two sets of speaker post on the back of the amp.

Hi fiesta the blue circled cap is 6.8uf 250v cap,which is the one that looked like it had a short,but after desoldering it from the board ,it tested on,no continuity and good cap testing values,so was red herring,someone said it was because it was in parallel with other parts reason for show a short
fiesta-
" In one photo I can read 3.9uf/250V. When you drew and label the components on the circuit board the 4.2uf should have been 3.9?"
I didnt draw the x-over i received it from wilmslow audio and posted it here,

maybe i have the wrong caps,i will dig out the old ones and check/compare.

hififan,i checked out the link,had a look at the schem,that one is similar,but are they not all individual to every speaker?,im not sure.

rodman,i dont really want to go down that route of testing with expendable drivers and amps,its exspensive, when things go pop,but thanks,plus the speakers work,but after a few hours the amps goes pop,so i dont think its an obvious fault,but possibly a high draw problem,putting strain on the amp driving the mid/high drivers,but thanks for the input.infact thank you all for your imput.
im going to check out the cap values and tyes again ,against that schematic.

ps,thankyou thomas for the explanation and time,you know who you are.