Speaker placement
By ear? Sorry OP no measurement? You LOST ME.. How you gonna know what the heck is going on in a "DIFFICULT ROOM" (Your quote not mine) if you don’t take at least some SPL readings in the corners and seated position. HIGHS and lows it will tell you a LOT. 10 to 1 right in front over your head, treatment there alone, will tame all kinds of HF energy. The BACK wall, normally the first reflection point is pretty important and Major control point for OVER loading a room. Decay rate is VERY important.. How LIVE is that flippin’ room and where are the hot spots.. 3 way to heaven. Trap a frequency, control a frequency, or LOSE a frequency. It still boils down to room correction mechanically and tailoring the sound with Tone controls (parametric and some graphic EQ) and if needed time delays. Heavy curtains are your friend believe me.. You can draw or open for room correction and they look nicer than the stupid room treatment panels.. Some are, ARE, JUST UGLY dude...:-) Corner traps. Some are a WHOLE lot better than others. Master M can tune in.. He always has a goodie or two.. helmholtz TECH Difficult rooms, 6-7 foot ceilings those are REAL tough.. Kitty Corner in the room is that an option? Decware https://www.decware.com/paper14.htm has a great article about just that type of room.. It’s all pretty cheap BUT it does take time to learn it.. Week or two you aught to be a pro.. LOL Charge BOB 500 and a smaller fee for travel.. Regards |
@oldhvymec I was referring to Bob if I was to use him not knowing if he took measurements or not. I do have treatments on the walls and ceiling. Have a look on my systems page. I would love to hear your opinion. So far I have run the audyssey xt 32 room correction that came with the Marantz 8805 in the position that the speakers are in now. My next thought was to try the sumiko placement method and see how that sounds. Would I run room correction after each new placement? |
Can’t help with a high ceiling as I have never had to deal with it. The kicker is it is a fixed distance. Hopefully you don’t have cubed dimensions. To get a little more scientific. you can look at 1/4 wave lengths. 1/4 length cancel because by the time it bounces off the walls and comes back it is a 1/2 length out of phase with the driver. The tricky part is the front wall, back wall, side wall and ceiling all count. So it is best to have different distances between all of these so the cancellations blend together to fill the holes. Worst case it have the side wall and back wall be the same distance as in both 4’. Get ready for a giant hole in the sound of this is the case. The short version is all walls between between 3’ and 6’.6” should be avoided for bass. Closer than 3’ is actually better than between 3’ and 6.6”’. After 6.6 the bass lumps tend to go away and the speaker soundstage opens up. But closer than 3’ and your mids get muddy. If you can’t get your mains 7’ off the walls one of the best solutions is to use subs so you can cross them over and tuck them less than 3’ off the walls and pull your mains out 4-5’. This will fix a null issue as you can place different frequency drivers in different places. Chart so you can calculate it for yourself. http://www.soundoctor.com/freq.htm Video for the reading impaired myself included lol. https://youtu.be/T10_MLGOBfc |
