Atma-Sphere MA-1 tube rolling


Curious to hear if anyone has tried tube rolling the Atma-Sphere MA-1 or MA-2, for that matter: driver tube vs power tube rolling? Anyone tried replacing the 6AS7G power tubes with either 5998 tubes or 6080 tubes?  Thanks.
drbond
IME, it was problematic to roll the 6AS7 output tubes in my M-60.
I have always been a fan of NOS,
I got a set of 6AS7Gs from Brent Jesse.
They we’re not matched and were three different brands as Brent said.
As Ralph said, the failure rate of NOS is high compared to the stock Russian. 3 of the 16 failed. However, when I got good ones in, the power output went up about 20% and the tone was much better.
I would highly recommend going with NOS as long as you are aware of the failure rate,
Have your customers mentioned to you what changing out the stock 6AS7G tubes for either the Russian 6H13C or the Chinese (I assume ShuGuang) tubes do differently, for better or worse?
Actually the stock tubes **are** either the Russian or Chinese tube (which seem to sound the same; the difference is in how they fail).
Would you suggest just rolling the 6SN7 driver tubes for more adjustability? 
People roll the 6SN7s all the time with nice results. We've found that that Sophia tubes while sounding great at first, seem to have a short life of maybe only 6 months, whereas a regular NOS tube in the same spot can go for years. The one tricky bit is the driver tube which in the MA-1 will be in a different location depending on when the MA-1 was built. If you have a version with reflected left and right hand chassis the driver tube is on the corner facing the power tubes; if a newer chassis the driver tube is the one in the front. This particular tube must have a -GTA or -GTB suffix if you're using an NOS type. Modern 6SN7s like the Shugang 6SN7 or Sovtek are marked 'GT' but are actually GTBs.


If you are forced to use Russian made 6SN7s (which conversely and confusingly from the Russian power tubes are usually a poor choice), they should be screened on a tube tester to show no leakage at all on the leakage test, otherwise you may encounter a buzz. The lifespan of these tubes is also really variable going anywhere from 2 weeks (in which case send it back to where you got it and get it replaced; most tube sellers have a 90 day warranty) to maybe 2 years.


i too have wondered why russian power tubes are very good (i use el34 and kt88 variants), yet the sound of russian low level tubes like 6922 6sl7/sn7 are rather poor (lacking midrange bloom) and russian rectifiers like gz34's are abysmal in quality and lifespan

ralph, any theories or thoughts as to why this is the case?
@atmasphere 
Thank you for the reply. 

In my estimation, your direct contact with the people who use your products, and your willingness to share your time and expertise, shows that you really enjoy what you do, and your products reflect that.  

I rolled out the non-driver Chinese 6SN7's, and placed Tung Sol NOS 6SN7GTB in their stead, and the sound stage and detail really materialized right in front of me.  

I'm planning on trying Ken-Rad VT231's and CBS Hytron 5692's in the primary positions of the 6SN7's closest to the back of the MA-1 mark 3.3 next.  But it sounds like I should stay away from Russian 6SN7's, which would include National, and some modern Tung Sol from Russia?  

I was considering trying out other power tubes (like possibly the 7236), but given your advice, I think I'll just stick to the Russian 6H13C. 
ralph, any theories or thoughts as to why this is the case?
We suspect that the environmental control is poor- tubes are made by hand and we've heard that they don't use Latex gloves in their assembly. That comes from Eric Barbour back when he was involved with the US Svetlana brand and so may well be completely inaccurate at this point but we see the same problems now that we saw 20 years go when he was there. That's my best guess as this would affect small signal tubes more. A pragmatic individual will simply roll with the punches...
But it sounds like I should stay away from Russian 6SN7's, which would include National, and some modern Tung Sol from Russia?
I can't speak to the National brand- some of that might be production prior to the fall of the Soviet empire and might actually be OK (Russian 6SN7s from the 1960s can be excellent, but pricey and the differences in appearance from the current Sovtek junk is subtle so buyer beware). But IMO the EH, Mullard or TungSol (which are all nearly the same thing) don't hold up to the (advertising) hype.

FWIW though we have seen some of the Gold Lion branded 12AU7s out of Russia be quite good.