Audiophile quality fuse holders

The most you’ll get to is high copper content alloys for fuse holder electrical contacts and fuse support/retention. Pure copper materials for electrical contact design and build, are generally an eliminated product or material. Too soft to be safe over the long term in safety/approval, etc.

This, specifically for the high power inlet and fusing aspects of electrical equipment. Basically anything that has to deal with variance/stability in tension/retention or has pressures that have to be maintained. Like spring clips for a fuse. Pure Copper is too dangerous/soft in the long term (Across thousands of individual items--it’s a failure rate thing), so it’s brass or things like tellurium copper/or and beryllium copper.

this is easily found via looking at the specs for fuse holders in a search at lets say - digikey. it’s one of the standard parameters supplied. Additionally, they will usually supply information on the coating or plating type. Same for fuses themselves.

Thus one can look for fuse holders that spec beryllium copper alloys with silver plating. And thus avoid brass and tin plating and the like as a contact material in fuses or fuse holders...

I have worked with a number of fuse holders/clips when upgrading my electronics boards.  Like teo_audio stated, "pure copper" is never used because of spring strength/tension. 

I have found that the best fuse clips/holders are made by LittelFuse company.  They have the strongest spring tension (which is important to me).  You don't want a weak spring fuse holder.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/fuseholders/140?s=N4IgjCBcoCwKwyqAxlAZgQwDYGcCmANCAPZQDaI...

They are made from either from spring brass or Phosphorus Bronze (copper alloy).  Some are silver plated.  I generally do not like silver plating because it adds a glare to the upper mids/highs.  Otherwise, get the model that fits your board hole alignment. 

Audiophiles agree on practically nothing including fuse holders.

But it never hurts to overbuild and charge accordingly if your goal is to sell to audiophiles. That kinda makes it audiophile at that point. Although most likely audiophiles probably would not all agree about that either.

I am a bonafide audiophile. You can tell because I talk about it a lot. Send me a fuse holder. I will give it the audiophile stamp of approval or not and make things easier for all that way. 🧐

OMG too too funny. Laughing so hard I have my coffee coming out my nose!!!!

jjss493,123 posts07-13-2021 8:45am


wait -- then you need audiophile quality screws and nuts to hold the audiophile fuse holder, holding the audiophile fuse

make sure you also have audiophile quality aluminum sheet stock to make the amp chassis out of, and then there is audiophile quality flooring where your audiophile quality amp with audiophile quality fuses held by audiophile quality fuse holders held by audiophile quality nuts/screws attached to your audiophile quality amp chassis can rest on, of course, using audiophile quality feet and audiophile quality damping springs

then there is audiophile quality air that needs to be purchased and pumped into the listening room

if you are going to get it right, get it right, don’t short shrift now...

@pauly 
No i don’t think it’s a waste of time Black Supreme needs a break in period of 60 hours or more, and try reversing to fuse after it burns in, I’m thinking moving up to Synergistic Research Orange Fuse slow blow 12.5 replacing the HiFi Tuning Black Supreme.
CincyJim