Is D for Dry? Class D...


Class D sounds dry and lifeless... thats all, carry on
128x128b_limo
OK Sunshine.

What’s the issue with tube pins? I own 70+ year old Western Electric Amps and 300B tubes and have never had issues with tube pins, sure sockets can get loose but that’s a one minute fix and tube pins are easy to clean.

What AGD has done is brilliant on more than one level.

No not brilliant, more inept, but guarantees return service work in the future (maybe not so stupid.$$)
There’s a HUGE!! difference in output wattage and current going through the tube pins, compared to a 10w SE 300B even a push/pull one . (do your homework) 
Especially if the AGD is "trying" to drive Wilson speakers with low bass impedances.
You may as well have those nasty spring clip speaker terminals on the back of the AGD, because that’s just as good as the tube pins and the speakers are hooked through those to the GaN output stage in the 6550 tube envelop.
Jeff Rowland is reading...and taking notes
He doesn't have to take notes, as NO WAY you’d see JR doing high wattage/current signal transfer through those sorts of contacts, EVER!.

Cheers George
Post removed 
Ralph, don’t skew things around "to seem" to suit your next product.
I did not say "won’t handle", I said will not get "the best" out of the Alexia’s bass because of it loading.
We have the Alexia’s here in front of us and know what they like to get the best out of them in the bass, and it’s not Class-D yet. (Maybe in the future when they can come close to doubling from 8ohm to 4ohm to 2ohm wattages like big better linear amps can)
Again, according to Wilson themselves, the speaker does not suffer any performance loss strictly on account of class D. Some class D amps are not as good as others just as some class AB amps aren't as good as others.


And for the record I'm not skewing things. To be clear, if you want to get '  ' 'the best' out of the Alexia's bass', a class D amp can do that as well or better than a regular class AB amp. Here are the provisos:IF-
1) as long as it is designed with the same current in the power supply as the AB amp2) as long as it has adequate heatsinks3) as long as the output section as the same current ratings in its output devices-then it will make bass no worries, with 'the best'.

This is nothing about our upcoming product so much as its about Ohm's Law.


I was a bit astonished that in the face of advice from the speaker manufacturer in question that you were continuing to hang on to your position, which they regard as nonsense.


Now it may be that you are actually comparing some class AB amp against a particular class D amp on that speaker- and I'll totally give you that anecdote. But anecdote is not proof of your position (its a data point at best); if that is what you are experiencing then I advise you look for a different (probably newer) class D of more competent design. If you need tips on what to look for here are a few:1) avoid amps with SMPSs as most SMPSs will current limit if they are off the shelf units. Get one with a more traditional power supply.2) look for units that, if using feedback, are of the self-oscillating variety. The Hypex is a good example.2) The input circuit, if installed by the ultimate builder of the product, should use high quality opamps operating at low gain. Even though I like tubes, they are very difficult to use properly as the input circuit because the comparitor input impedance is so low. This will make it hard for the resulting amp to have good low frequency response.