Putting in a dedicated power line. 2 receptacles ok?

That's ok if it makes sense to you.. It still doesn't to me.. BUT who the heck am I.. I think I'll stick with what I've been doing.. I mean I did build the house. NOT somebody else I built it, wired it, and and now repairing it after 40 years.. BUT hay, I'm just al ol mechanic..

Being able to do, rough wiring, pole work, troubleshooting, or finish wiring is NOT a hard thing to do. BEING fast and making it look professional is Pure repetition and do the good ones pay. For that a decent electrician in new construction it's almost worth hiring just for the speed alone. Cool thing my brother was the BA for the IBEW local 302.  With a little research you can figure out who I am.. NO lack of UNION Electricians around here.. Electricians, Mechanics, Cops, and Killers, My family!!

Regards

Convenience and short runs to the outlets are important considerations. 

In the US, using the NEC as guidance, yes, you can run a 15 or 20 AMP circuit to multiple outlets. 

In the NEC there are also requirements for having enough outlets on a wall.  I forgot what they are, but in general the idea is to minimize the need for extension cords.  I strongly encourage you to follow this minimum guidance at least. 

Best,

E

Opposite sides does not prevent them interacting with each other. Whatever that means. Anyone interested in understanding how our electricity works, from the grid to the panel to the outlet, this is highly recommended. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMmUoZh3Hq4

I think the question is terminology.

There is a single ground bus and a single common bus, NOT keeping the two separated in the main box could cause noise.

By removing or leaving the BRIDGE between the two (common and ground bus) they become one or removing it splits the two buses. It is a VERY common practice, to see a jumper between the two.

It may have been an easier way to explain two grounds vs the practice of having a jumper between the two and REMOVING it. He separated the common bus from the ground bus and cleaned the customers main to reflect that..  Older homes you see it ALL the time..

SPLIT the two and remove the bridge..

Load 1 or Load 2, take your pic but NOT both. You can add 6 breakers just hook them ALL to L1 or L2 not both to equal the load (not that much of a load now anyway)

The old SS Class As could suck the pole dry, still do for that matter. 220/240 is a better option for them.

MC is using a step down from 220/240 to a singe common rail of 120 (if I remember correctly) he’s got a different set up than most. Running HD class A on his system would be no problem, but for the common man they may have to split two 120 vac load between L1 and L2 and result in noise.

It’s all about leakage from the ground into common via the main OR subpanel lay out.. Who did what WHERE, kind of thing..

Clear as mud..

Putting in a dedicated power line. Is it ok to put in 2 power receptacles at the end of it, or stick with one? Meaning 4 outlets. Im putting in Audioquest NRG Edison outlets.
deanshias

@ deanshias


Yes you can. The branch circuit is dedicated to feed your audio equipment.
Two duplex receptacles or even three is not a problem. (As long as they are grouped on the same wall.

FYI, I would not install both duplex receptacles in the same box though. When they are installed in the same box and a wall wart(s) are used the wall wart as a rule will cover part of the receptacle next to it. I would recommend a separate one gang box for each duplex receptacle.
You will want to do that anyway using the "Audioquest NRG Edison outlets".  As far as I know it only comes with a single duplex cover plate.


I would not use the duplex terminal connections to feed from one duplex to the next though. You want to pigtail out from the branch circuit wiring to feed the duplex outlet. Use a quality electrical live spring twist on connector. The spring will always keep the connection tight unlike a screw terminal type. Especially when using solid wire.
Example:
https://www.idealind.com/us/en/shop/twister-341.html

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