wait, enjoy your friends system, see what's around when you move out.
Some advice please.... Limited $$ what should I spend on FIRST?
My Best Friend and I live together. He has a KILLER Audiophile system centered around his Martin Logan 15A's.... I'm not looking to reduplicate that.
I will be using his Theil's speakers that are hotroded. I intend on getting the ML center channel speaker and need a decent 2.1 Amp to drive the 3 speakers. The choice I am struggling with is either spend about $2,300 on a 75" 4k TV and that will free up ~5,000 -6,000 on the amp. OR spend about $2300 on the amp and the rest goes towards a projector and screen. Either way, the 2,300 will be a temp fix until I can save more $ to start filling out the HT system... I simply don't have enough $$ to get everything at once.... SIGH its always never-ending pursuit of upgrading lol
I will be using his Theil's speakers that are hotroded. I intend on getting the ML center channel speaker and need a decent 2.1 Amp to drive the 3 speakers. The choice I am struggling with is either spend about $2,300 on a 75" 4k TV and that will free up ~5,000 -6,000 on the amp. OR spend about $2300 on the amp and the rest goes towards a projector and screen. Either way, the 2,300 will be a temp fix until I can save more $ to start filling out the HT system... I simply don't have enough $$ to get everything at once.... SIGH its always never-ending pursuit of upgrading lol
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OK, 1st, Start with a ’front stereo system’ i.e. 2 channel integrated amp, with a unit that has ’HT Bypass’ INPUT. 2nd, the AVR needs to have pre-out. The pre-out will go to the ’front stereo system’ thru it’s ’HT Bypass’ input. thus, the AVR only needs to be powerful enough to drive the center and surrounds. the better equipment always drives the front l and front r speakers, for music (AVR OFF), AND for 5,1, 7.1, AVR ON. AVR, when on, controls the volume of all, including the front. I started this having it misunderstood, by the end it became clear: https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/avr-internal-2-channel-audio-mode-or-ht-bypass-external-equip... ............................................. Think NOW about the bass, either large fronts with enough bass, or, a pair of subs for ’stereo bass’ (front facing, adjacent to the mains, no ports or front ports) or a single sub for dinosaur stomps. where’s the crossover? if only ’front stereo system’ for music, where/when is the bass on? you would want bass always on, thus not using a sub in surround mode, or adding a single sub in surround mode? check out RAVEN, see their amp's built-in crossover, sends lows to self powered subs, lets the amp more easily handle upper bass, mids, highs, thus the 2 channel amp can be: smaller, lighter, less heat, more placement options, less money too. any amp with 'pre-out' can go to a self-powered sub, then back at line level minus lows to 'main in', same except the crossover is in the sub, Raven's crossover is in the amp. |
I think you’ll have a much more rewarding HT experience going with the projector and $2300 amp. Plus you can buy the amp used and sell it for little loss when you’re ready to upgrade to a better amp. I wouldn’t get an ML center to pair with Thiel speakers as they’re likely not a good sonic match. I’d try to find a used Thiel center or get an SVS Ultra Center that’s a great center speaker and probably a good match with the Thiels. And SVS offers a very generous risk-free trial period so if it doesn’t work out you can just return it. You don’t specifically mention a subwoofer (except you mention 2.1), but it’s not optional for legit and truly entertaining home theater, so while you’re talking to SVS consider picking up one of their PB2000 Pro subs and they might cut you a deal. BTW, what preamp/processor are you planning on using with the amp? For an amp, one option would be a D-Sonic M3a-1200-3 that’s only $2375 new and would work great in an HT setup and have plenty of juice for power-hungry Thiels. It’s good enough that you may very well not need a future upgrade. Anyway, FWIW and best of luck. |
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