04-29-12: Sounds_real_audio
>If 12" drivers were as fast and accurate as 4" drivers we wouldn't need any midrange drivers.
It's a function of system design. You're not going to beat a 12" midrange paired with a like sized wave guide for sound quality although the 30" high x 15" wide "stand mounted monitor" combining the two may be hard to get past your spouse.
Your brain hears timbre as a combination of the direct sound and what it identifies as reflections with the later coming off the speaker at extreme angles (> 70 degrees for the side walls depending on toe-in).
So to get a natural sound you need drivers to have similar behavior both on-axis and at those extreme angles.
Drivers also become increasingly directional as their dimensions grow large compared to sound wavelengths. By 900Hz a 12" driver has lost 3dB 45 degrees off-axis and by 1400Hz it's 6dB down.
At those frequencies a 1" tweeter on a flat baffle is omnidirectional.
The two won't match like the waveguide does. A 12cm cone or 5cm dome will match on a flat narrow baffle.
>04-29-12: Bombaywalla
> You can add 6dB for a floor mounted woofer (as in many 3-ways), 6dB if there are a pair of bass drivers, and 6dB at the cross-over point to a sub-woofer....
>>Drew, why are you adding 6dB? It's power output, you should be adding 3dB in each case.
That's the sound increase you get when you run the drivers out to their physical limits although it'll take twice the power to get there as with a single driver. With the example 5.25" driver I listed 2.83V (1W into 8 Ohms or 2W into 4) will get you to xmax at 80Hz with one driver or a pair in parallel with power around 0.25W for a single driver and 0.5W for a pair (impedance increases as you approach resonance so power drops).
>If 12" drivers were as fast and accurate as 4" drivers we wouldn't need any midrange drivers.
It's a function of system design. You're not going to beat a 12" midrange paired with a like sized wave guide for sound quality although the 30" high x 15" wide "stand mounted monitor" combining the two may be hard to get past your spouse.
Your brain hears timbre as a combination of the direct sound and what it identifies as reflections with the later coming off the speaker at extreme angles (> 70 degrees for the side walls depending on toe-in).
So to get a natural sound you need drivers to have similar behavior both on-axis and at those extreme angles.
Drivers also become increasingly directional as their dimensions grow large compared to sound wavelengths. By 900Hz a 12" driver has lost 3dB 45 degrees off-axis and by 1400Hz it's 6dB down.
At those frequencies a 1" tweeter on a flat baffle is omnidirectional.
The two won't match like the waveguide does. A 12cm cone or 5cm dome will match on a flat narrow baffle.
>04-29-12: Bombaywalla
> You can add 6dB for a floor mounted woofer (as in many 3-ways), 6dB if there are a pair of bass drivers, and 6dB at the cross-over point to a sub-woofer....
>>Drew, why are you adding 6dB? It's power output, you should be adding 3dB in each case.
That's the sound increase you get when you run the drivers out to their physical limits although it'll take twice the power to get there as with a single driver. With the example 5.25" driver I listed 2.83V (1W into 8 Ohms or 2W into 4) will get you to xmax at 80Hz with one driver or a pair in parallel with power around 0.25W for a single driver and 0.5W for a pair (impedance increases as you approach resonance so power drops).