Step by Step How to Use a Digital Multimeter / Oscilloscope for Azimuth Adjustments


So I did the usual azimuth setup for a VPI using the rod on top of the tonearm groove (method of setting that is included with VPI turntables from factory) on my VPI Classic 3.   I also bought one of those clear blocks on Amazon with the lines so you can get it as flat as you can visually.   It does sound good just doing this but I wanted to go next level and see if I could do it electronically even better.    I have read you can use a digital multimeter (DMM) or oscilloscope to do the adjustments.   I found on Amazon a Hantek 2D42 that has both features and I bought the BNC to RCA connectors for it so I can interface it with my turntable or alternatively the preamp output on my Sutherland 20/20 for boosted signals.
That all being said, how do I use this for setting the azimuth?   I have read you can use either device (DMM or Scope) to do this adjustment but it seems like the directions are pretty sketchy on how to do it.
I looked into buying the Adjust + software but as of August 2021 it isn't available to buy any longer so that isnt an option.
Anyone know how I can use this Hantek to do the testing and adjustments?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
newguru
Setting azimuth by orienting the stylus in the groove so it sits squarely is different from setting azimuth electrically. You seem to know this. There are some very good papers on this subject, and reading them led me to the practice of setting azimuth by the physical method.
However, to set azimuth electrically, you will need a test LP that contains a band that encodes a single pure frequency (typically 1000Hz) in the R channel with no signal in the L channel, and then also contains a second band that encodes the same frequency in the L channel with no signal in the R channel. Shure and probably some other companies made such test LPs. Then you first calibrate your system by setting the signal strength to be equal in each channel. In other words, play the R channel band and observe the db or voltage in the R channel. Do the same with the L channel signal, and set the two to be roughly equal in db. Now play the R channel band and observe the signal strength that appears in the L channel. Then play the L channel band and observe the signal strength in the R channel. Adjust azimuth toward one of two possible goals: equal crosstalk vs lowest possible crosstalk, regardless of equalizing. There is another whole argument about which of those two goals is to be preferred, electrically speaking, because in my experience "equal" is never the same azimuth setting as "lowest". Also, keep in mind the obvious fact that you would like to insert your meter or scope as close to the cartridge output as possible. If you readout at the phono stage outputs, then you are including any inequalities between the two channels of your phono stage in the data.  On the other hand, trying to read the microscopic voltages from an LOMC cartridge directly can be frustrating or impossible if you want repeatable results.  It's easy with high output cartridges and good instruments.
Excellent info provided!

FWIW, it is advisable to use the same preamplifier channel for measuring the crosstalk levels of both channels in order to minimize electrical errors. Unfortunately this requires swapping Input channels between the testing of R/L tracks.

Also, most digital level measuring devices utilize a sample hold function. It is highly advisable to use this “Hold” feature as it allows for dismissal of artifacts by observing ONLY the low capture and tossing out Average & High level readings.

As stated, the objective is to obtain as low and as equal crosstalk levels as possible between channels by rotating azimuth. Pay attention to anti-skating & pray for symmetrical channel separation of your pickup’s coils.

If all else fails, adjust by ear for minimum sibilance while enjoying increased resolution.
You guys seem to understand there are two different ways of setting azimuth. What you are missing is what this means: The sort of absolutely precise azimuth you are after cannot be achieved via any sort of observation other than listening.

The two methods everyone uses are

1) Observing the angle of the stylus in the groove. This is what the vast majority recommend. Get a USB microscope.

This is indeed great and wonderful for getting your stylus geometrically aligned for tracing the groove - of a static, stationary LP. The stylus sticks out from the end of the cantilever. Playing a record exerts lateral forces that torque the cantilever. Everything from the stylus to the cantilever to the cartridge body to the head shell and on down the line starts oscillating like crazy. If you could see it in high speed slo-mo you would freak. You would also shake your head at the futility of observing the static state.

and

2) Observing generator voltages. This is the electrical observation you are asking about. In this one, which I would by the way say is arguably more relevant, the observation is to get a voltage as ideal as possible.

The problem with this one, it is like measuring an amp by watts. Do the most watts mean the amp sounds the best? Right. Waste of time.

This one will at least give you a fighting chance of getting really good separation, which will probably lead to a bigger wider deeper sound stage.

Probably. But no way to know for sure. Why? Because of #1. What if the electrically correct azimuth results in a slightly different stylus azimuth? What then? Which one do we use? Split the diff?

No. We listen. Listening is the only observation that sums all these and more into one coherent whole. Same for VTA, VTF, and all the other stuff too by the way. Just every once in a while instead of just saying so it is nice to let the folks know I know all this tech stuff too. Before you discard something it is always best to know exactly what it is and why it is okay to discard it.
“ measure and listen “ Max Townshend

obviously the OP is in an excellent position to do both and discern …..and learn