Moving away from inefficient/low impedance speaker in order to move to a Tube Amp


I think this is talked about more on the amplifier side...tubes to solid state or vice versa. But as we all know, going with a  tube amp requires some effort in choosing the proper speaker. I have Harbeth C7's, which are a very nice speaker....but I'm not willing to spend the money on a high quality 100 watt tube amp. For those that have been in this scenario, please share some additional steps from your journey. Example 1: You had speaker A, but surprisingly found it worked fine with tubes...Example 2: You had speaker A, but it did not sing with tubes, so you found speaker B, and paired it with Tube amp C..... Cheers -Don

fjn04

Both tech ’s here in New Orleans, said ,,**You realize those are the wrong speakers for your Jadis Defy7 amp,,don’t you????...***

well not really.

Both are wrong.

And both have decades exp in this hobby.

fact of the matter was, the speakers were wrong choice for my music, not for the amp.

However,,,so I continued my speaker research,,hit on Full range, BINGO, found my solution to voicing my classical music.

The Seas Thors stay as assist.

So now I really need the Defy 100watts of pure power, to handle all the speaker load.

If you run a single FR, any tube amp will work just fine.

If you keep your old speakers readjust the xover, you will need a tube amp with some good trans.

At least 60 lbs of weight.

Hope that helps.

 

@fjn04 How big is the room in which this speaker is being used?

If you are planning a lower powered tube amp and need to fill a larger space, the Harbeths won’t do the job. They are 6 Ohms, and Sensitivity is rated 86dB, meaning their Efficiency is less: 85.5dB. That’s not quite criminally inefficient... This speaker might work fine for a bedroom system where high volume isn’t a requirement or in a smaller room, which are more common in Europe where this speaker was made.

I’d be looking at something like the ZU Audio loudspeakers, which are easy to drive and reasonably priced- also DeVore Fidelity, Audiokinesis, Spatial Audio (if you have the room they are nicely priced and good performers) or Pure Audio Project.

As a general rule of thumb all amplifiers regardless of their technology make higher distortion into lower impedances. If you want the system to sound relaxed and more realistic, for this simple reason lower impedance speakers should be avoided (high end is all about reducing colorations which distortion causes). Distortion can cause the system to be more strident- that alone is a good reason to seek higher impedance speakers!

Efficiency (1 watt/1 meter) is an easier spec to use than Sensitivity (2.83Volts/1 meter) if you are planning to use a tube amplifier. This is because tube amps do not double power as impedance is halved. So efficiency tells you sound pressure based on wattage; sensitivity tells you sound pressure based on voltage. So if you have a 90dB speaker (which might be a nice number) but its also 4 Ohms, 2.83 Volts into that load is 2 watts, not 1. That’s a 3dB difference, so that speaker would actually be only 87dB and you would need an amp with twice the power to make it play as loud as a speaker that was actually 90dB with 1 watt!

I bring this up because tube amplifier power is expensive- and it always has been, which is why back when tubes were the only game in town speakers tended to be a lot more efficient. You don’t want to spend the cash for a good 100 Watt amp and I don’t blame you. So the sort of speakers you want to be looking to will have efficiency ratings in the mid 90s- about 10dB more efficient than what you have now.

That will allow you to get the same volume with an amp with 1/10th the power. The speakers I mentioned do that, with no loss of resolution.

Getting good bass is harder as the efficiency of the speaker is increased- above 95dB it gets really expensive. You might want to look into a subwoofer system. The trick here is to keep the sub operating well below 80Hz- that way it will not attract attention to itself and you can get it to blend easily. But to get good bass at the listening chair you may well find that one sub has to be placed inconveniently. Two subs will help but the best way to do this is to run 4 subs. Since bass is entirely reverberant in most rooms below 80Hz (due to the length of the fundamental bass note; 80Hz is 14 feet) or so, they can be run with a mono signal. Audiokinesis makes a sub system called the Swarm which is reasonably priced and designed to be placed directly against the wall. You might contact Duke about them. This would allow the main speakers to be smaller.

Audiokinesis

 I have Harbeth C7's, which are a very nice speaker....but I'm not willing to spend the money on a high quality 100 watt tube amp. 

How much do you want to spend? What preamp are you using?

I had a 35 wpc Primaluna amp.  Got the low watt bug and bought a Decware Mini Torii 4wpc amp.  Kept my Ref 3A speakers ( rated at 92db eff.)

 

Other than not being able to bother the neighbors I got plenty of sound in a 12x20ft room open on the long sides.

Wouldn't mind a more efficient speaker but haven't seen one the trips my ticket.

 

Have a Grommes PHI-26 6 wpc speaker in a second system with 97db Klipsch Quartets  both sound great just different

 

We had some monitors like that here, they were a similar 87dB and with my 20W Raven Blackhawk had no problem driving them satisfyingly loud in my 17x24x9 room. The guy who brought them had also brought his 100+ watt SS amp. We were all surprised how those inefficient power hogs came alive with the Blackhawk.

It is good you are figuring out something I have used as a speaker buying guide all my life- avoid low sensitivity speakers, they limit you on amps. But unless your room is huge or you rock out a lot (not likely, Harbeth after all) then you will be fine with any tube amp 20W or more.