What say you?


 

128x128yogiboy

Wow! - with this debate NEVER end?

For every dealer that denounces performance cables you can find several more that will support their use/price.

Dealers (like the chap in the video) are simply another person with an opinion - they are not an expert in the field.

I have tried my cables on a variety of components

  • from a $300 MINI system
  • to a $50,000 system with many TOTL components
  • Each time the listener experienced a significant improvement in sound quality

There are some basics common to performance cables

#1. The metal in the wire...

  • UP-OCC Cooper has extremely good dynamics and details
  • UP-OCC Silver is the best
  • Zavfino - use excellent copper and silver in theriicables

#2. the insulation of the wire...

  • The insulation with the lowest value of dielectric constant (i.e. Dk) is more detailed and articulate
  • Why does wire with cotton insulation sound better? because it has a low Dk, so more details

#3. the geometry of the cables

  • The best cable geometry provides the lowest noise floor
  • take a look at In-Akustik for an excellent example of great cable geometry

So if you want to know what makes a good cable, then investigate these three simple attributes.

Or not - your choice

Just another opinion - Steve

 

This is completely and totally reasonable,  yes cables matter and yes sometimes people overspend or buy the more expensive rather than the right cables. It just proves you need to take your time and audition and find the right cables that fit your realistic budget.

 Hello yogiboy! When it comes to interconnects, It's a bit trickier than with speaker wires. The wire itself matters. The plugs matter. How they are connected together matters. Of course, these things matter in speaker wires too, but speaker wires carry a lot of current and interconnects don't. Speaker wires deliver power. Interconnects deliver pressure; Itsy bits of pressure. There is something called impedence. The key to understand it is in the core of the word: IMPEDE. It concerns the difficulty the signal encounters trying to get through the wire. Any cable has capacitance and inductance of its own. If a signal leaves a component (CD player, tuner, phono preamp, a "high level" signal: 2 - 5 volts maximum) with a low output impedence and goes into a preamp or power amp with a high input impedence, that's the best situation. The opposite: a high impedence output feeding a low impedence input, problems are likely. Now, in modern equipment, this is not common. But some solid state devices have moderate input impedences. Oh dear, that can be problematic!. High feeding high or low feeding low, generally - no problem. But that does not mean that the wire doesn't matter. It only means that a mis-match will not overwhelm the effect of the wire. The wire's own characteristics interact with the gear on both ends in complex ways. It IS predictable, but it takes time to do the testing and the math. Too bad, but true. Only super geeks have time for that! Get a bunch of cable and try them out, one after the other on the most difficult music you have.

Just the other night (11/24/2021) I was testing seven very different sets of interconnects. I was very skeptical of a widely advertised brand of cable I purchased years ago and never trusted. It seemed too light in weight to contain anytihing of value. Today, I ordered two more sets of them! They obviously outperformed all the others. (I also ordered, used, one set each of two other well regarded cables.) Three of the competitors were DIY cables using Cable TV wire, flat (300 ohm) TV antenna wire (obviously unshielded), and high quality microphone cable. All three of those cables sounde very good and practically indistingable from one another. Two of the other cables were proported to be high quality, moderately priced products. They were equal to one another, but inferior to the DIY wires. The last contender was made of a thin co-axial cable designed to carry video signals. It was slightly better than the moderately priced cables, but not quite as good as the other DIY cables. But the very lightweight, widely advertised cable was clearly more transparent, open, revealing more very subtle details that make the recording seem more "real." I'm not here to sell cables. I advocate DIY projects. But, I want the best sounding cabkes I can get (at a reasonable price). The point is: there ARE differences among interconnects, our pre-conceived notions not withstanding. It doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. Try discontinued, top-of-the-line cables from a year or two ago. Buy used cable. You don't have to break it in. It sounds like what it sounds like shortly after you open the box! Imagine comparing three new cables, right out of the box. You have no idea what they will sound like in three months! And you're paying top dollar! Eeek! A fool's errand, no doubt!

And just to be sure you realize just how many variables there are - - - the best cable betwen an amp and DAC may not the best cable between two other cmponents. I found some very appealing (Alpha-Core) cables at USEDCABLES.com and ordered them. I compared them (12-02-2021) to the DIY microphone cable interconnects, and the "best" commercial cables from the DAC to power amp test. While sounding very friendly and pleasant - one could say "nice and smooth," - they finished 3rd of three, and the DIY cables were much more open and transparent. The used "Alpha-Core" cable was very dymanic, but lacked the depth and super clarity of the DIY cables. How's that for odd? How can one cable be more dynamic than another? Wow, this may be more fun than tube rolling! So a cable may work beautifully in one part of a system and less well in another. I bought some used Pangea SE cables also. We'll check them out soon.

Well, I think I've told you all the helpful things I can. Cable sniffing is like tube rolling - with eels! Have fun! Happy Listening!

For the curious, equipment used in my interconnecting cable tests were: Asus laptop computer, Media Monkey software, Wireworld Silver Starlight Seven USB cable, Pro-Ject Pre Box S2 DAC (has a volume control), the cables being tested, Starke Sound AD4-320 power amp in the bridged mode, Ultralink Ambience 2.2 speaker cables, Magnepan LRS speakers.

For that other Preamp to electronic crossover: Akitika preamp, the cables being tested, DBX 223S crossover, Starke Sound AD4-320 power amp, 14 guage lamp cord, Golden Ear BRX speakers.

 

There have been several times where my system made a big leap forward.  Holding speakers constant, new preamp/amp, superb power conditioner, dedicated AC line.  Nevertheless, the most cost effective - though not cheap by any means - was installing better AC cables (Darwin Truth Black and Red to be specific).  Everything, but especially presence, improved dramatically, The improvement was not subtle at all - I felt like I had upgraded a major component.  I agree with Miller Carbon that it is futile to put a percentage on how much to spend on cables, but they should be treated like a component, not an afterthought.  I have come to believe that focusing on power supply and transmission has a huge payoff.  Also, it is not necessary to spend a ton of money to get good quality.  Signal produces really fine cables at a more than reasonable cost.  Cheers!

Appropriate cables shouldn’t cost more than $3/ft. If you spend more, you’ve been made a fool of. Lots of audio phools out there.