rodman99999,
Many thanks for posting the article about the 5 family types of solder. It explains so much more than I knew previously. Wonder Solder was a longtime choice for me, but after reading this, I must seek out some of the other products available. In the past, I have tried various solders products and many times was disappointed with the performance as a whole. I have had an interest in silver bearing solder, but again the results were dull looking joints. Maybe you can point me in the right direction about a silver bearing solder and temperature that might best for a given choice. |
@4krowme - You're welcome. I've encountered solders, whose flux chemistry made the finished product look, "dull". Flux removal brought out the shine. There are other, more compelling reasons for flux removal, than aesthetics, of course*. *Good stuff, here: https://www.chemtronics.com/do-you-need-to-clean-flux Then again: I have seen cold solder joints that appeared dull, without the other signs/visuals, that would indicate a faulty joint. That makes the case for an iron and large enough tip, to maintain a recommended temp, as well as sufficient/proper application of the heat (time, tinning and tip position. Regarding a good, silver-bearing solder: as mentioned: https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW Adhere to their temp recommendations, follow good soldering guidelines and you can't go wrong! Happy holidays and hobbying! |
Cardas has been recommended in the past, so I will give it another go. Last time, joints didn't look good, but I have found that ALL the previous solder must be removed before you can trust the results of resoldering a joint. Some of the newer products have solder that is simply hard to work with (high melting point). That is a recent change in the last few years, but it doesn't happen too often. Figured that it was just hi temp no lead solder, but after reading the paper, I see that I was wrong. Glad it was put forth. |
