REL B3 connecting to Linn Klimax Solo help...


Hi All,

I cannot get any output using a 20hz tone on my demo REL B3. Its connected to the High Level unbalanced input with the earth going to my Source ground plug and the RED wire to my Right Positive Monoblock and the Left wure to my Left Positive Monoblock

The amplifiers are Linns Klimax Solo 500. Can anyone assist in determing the right way to connect this in a 2channel system only?

My Linn pre, source and monoblocks all used balanced cables.

Thanks
128x128dastrix
I tried it anyway. Yes, the cone of the driver moves, but move the gain up above 50% and it makes this horrible noise.....

Assuming I cant use a chassis screw either.

Could I just try and Hold the earth wire onto the outta of an RCA plug to try it and see if that works???
So, back to the earth wire onto a RCA plug, are you sure that the RCA plug MUST be ground to the circuit????
99% sure. You can increase that to 100% by checking for zero ohm continuity between the ground sleeve of an RCA input jack and the ground sleeve of an RCA output jack, doing that while nothing else is connected to the preamp.
If so, could I chop off a rca plug from a unused rca cable I have and solder this up?
Yes. Make sure, of course, that you solder up to the wire that is connected to the RCA's ground sleeve, and not to the wire that is going to the center pin.
So I measured it, using a RCA plug outer and a chassis screw the result is 0. Does this mean I can use the earth wire to a chassis screw? .... tried it anyway. Yes, the cone of the driver moves, but move the gain up above 50% and it makes this horrible noise .....
Assuming the measurement was done properly, and the result was truly 0.0 ohms, I would expect that to work. Perhaps when the gain is above 50% you are overloading something with too large a signal, causing severe distortion. Try a higher frequency that is more readily audible, such as 50 or 60 Hz, with the earth wire connected to a chassis screw. Start out at a low gain setting and see what happens as you raise it.

The fact that you are now seeing cone movement is encouraging.
Could I just try and Hold the earth wire onto the outta of an RCA plug to try it and see if that works???
I wouldn't recommend doing that. If secure contact isn't maintained from the time the equipment is turned on until a minute or more after it is turned off (so that the power supplies in the components have had a chance to discharge), you could put a large and potentially destructive transient into the sub and/or the main speakers.

Regards,
-- Al
Just found this thread, which definitely looks relevant. I'll study it, and the links that are provided in some of the posts, later today.

Regards,
-- Al
Dastrix, upon further review I don't think that the issue of older REL subs being incompatible with Class D amps (unless a special cable is used) has any relevance.

As indicated in the manual, although your amplifier uses a switching power supply, it is a Class AB amplifier, not Class D.

Also, what apparently underlies the compatibility issue with Class D amps is that the voltages of both the positive and negative output terminals may be significantly offset from ground. If that were the case with your amplifier, there would undoubtedly be cautions in the manual about not grounding the negative output terminals, and there are no such cautions.

So I don't think you need that special cable, and the comments in the first of my posts dated today still apply. To be 100% certain, though, it might be a good idea to contact Linn, and ask them to confirm that the negative output terminals of the amp are connected to circuit ground.

Regards,
-- Al
Hi Al Does this help?

Klimax power amps have RCA shield connected to circuit ground which is lightly (~100R) connected to chassis.

The KDS (the source I used with the earth plug on the rear has transformer coupled outputs, so RCA shield is floating.

I still believe the unit is faulty because the gain at 50% shouldnt cause that sound I hear. Im taking it in this morning to get fully checked before I go further.

I think the chassis screw was indeed working and that the gain needed to be pushed more but couldnt because of a fault...

Cheers