Thiel Owners

Tom D.

Wow , I'll say it again Wow , you are an amazing DIY'er .

There are some who don't believe that a fuse can make a difference , or a power cord  or an outlet let alone going back to the breaker panel . 

I've looked into Solen inductors but like the ERSE perfect lay they are to large of a diameter to use unless they are used standing on edge ,  I hesitate mixing inductor styles and manufactures .  I'm still concidering increasing the guage of the 2 inductors on the woofer board .  Rob

Rob - take care when considering inductor gauge change. Although there may be no actual / functional differences, the fact remains that the coil resistance (as designed) is an integral part of the circuitry. Your change will change the circuit dynamics, and since Jim tuned those dynamics to a nub, I suspect you will not improve them. In fact, the differences may be small enough not to matter. But then consider what value are you getting? Note also that Thiel (ERSE - special) coil wire quality might be impossible to replicate in today's supply chain.

A real potential advantage is going from wire to foil, which acts more like a perfect inductor. In that case the Effective Series Resistance is quite different and may have even more impact on the circuit dynamics. In such case, you can re-establish the proper value / performance be inserting a series resistor after the coil, but its thermal dissipation will be considerably worse than the coil.

You might consider re-mounting the existing coil on stand-offs for more effective and even thermal dissipation than standard Thiel glue-down. That's where I have landed in my explorations. Just sharing a perspective.

Hello to everyone on this forum. I have recently taken possession of a pair of CS3's that my late uncle purchased new 3/17/1984, serial numbers 0275 & 0276 and am in need of repair advice from this wonderfully knowledgeable group.

1) I am in the process of replacing the non-functional original Dynaudio  tweeters with Morel MDT 32S. The Morels are deeper by approximately 5mm so I need to remove material at the back of the cavity to accommodate. What is the best tool for the application?

2) The bass equalizer has a noisy (hissing, popping) right channel and I want to have it repaired. Does anyone have a recommendation other than the venerable Rob Gillum?  

Thank You,

Jim

I would not change the inductors but would change the resistors to the Path brand or with the Vishay nude resistors and build a bridge so you can reach a 5 to 10 watt power rating..Cost for the Vishay product would be over $100 per position. Other improvement would be to remove the crossover from the box so as to avoid the head banging it receives when internal. If mounted external then you have it at hand and can experiment at will. I have my boards mounted on 1.5 in. Audiopoints 1 in each corner away from the 2 inductors.Tom D

Tom - I admire your deep-end solutions. I bet they sound good!

For my part, finding cost-effective upgrades that fit the general (albeit stretched) value proposition of Thiel Audio has landed me on Mills 12 watt audio resistors, quite good for $5.

I agree about removing the XO from the enclosure. Not only is there head-banging, there's gradually rising ambient temperature and proximity to driver magnetic fields. The CS2.4 got the XOs pretty far from the drivers, but better is better. I have two forms of exterior mounting. Full-blown is a separate cabinet about 2' behind the speaker that facilitates air-flow and allows more space between circuits. The first-tier upgrade puts the XO on the back of the cabinet. With vibrational isolation tech, we get pretty far along that road. We also get airflow and spread opportunities. I'm pleased with the improvements over stock - especially when the music gets dense, loud or long - the presentation stays much cleaner and more relaxed.