What is Tight Bass?


I’m confused. Speaker size with a large woofer…can it be tight?

is it about efficiency? Amp power? Electrostatic?

128x128moose89

Standing in closer proximity to an upright bass playing spells everything most any hifi speaker can’t reproduce. At one point I walked around an upright bass on a theater stage during a rehearsal, and in conjunction what I’ve heard at quite a few live concerts was struck by the sheer physical, resonating fullness and immersive and harmonically rich presence it produced. This wasn’t "tightness" but more like the very opposite, and if a speaker was actually able to faithfully reproduce it I’m quite most would claim it to be loose, underdamped bass, when in fact this is what it can sound like for real.

I vital aspect here is the accompanying physicality, which most domestic speakers simply cannot come close to replicating, let alone effortlessly. Indeed, "fullness" for it to be felt fairly authentic with an instrument like an upright bass requires lots of displacement and headroom, and therefore it’s not a scalable feature of sound reproduction that one can successfully minimize. Perhaps some tube amps with their typically looser and warmer bass reproduction is a compensation of sorts for a lack of displacement in most speakers, that adds to the sensation of the lower frequencies being more authentic or natural sounding.

Many hifi setups strike me as sounding overdamped in the bass and yet at the same time too forced or "pulsating" even. With electronic non-acoustic music this mayn’t be a hindrance, in fact it can give the opposite impression and being an advantage, but with acoustic instruments (and environments) in particular many if not most simply fall short. To make matters worse lesser bass reproduction (be that for reasons of poor implementation or other) has a tendency to be gained down for it not to be too conspicuous, which further robs the overall sound of a foundation and fullness that should ideally be present.

Using an active setup myself (with prodigious displacement, high eff. and headroom) I’ve sometimes found the subs gain to be a little tricky depending on the material that is being played, though I’m fairly close now to a fixed setting that serves both one and the other genre, or one that may prioritize a range of music slightly more than others if not being a more balanced "middle road" setting. Classical music generally will happily take more sub gain for it to simply sound more real (mostly we’re only talking increments of 0.25dB’s here, so it’s close, but you’d be surprised to find them audible nonetheless), whereas this higher gain setting can potentially be detrimental to other, electronic genres. If one day I’m in a particular classical mood the subs gain may be increased a bit, but mostly it’s a one-setting-fits-most call.

I’m using a Belles SA30 Class A power amp (30 watts) for the frequency range ~600Hz on up by a 111dB sensitive horn/driver combo, and high power Class D variants for the spectrum below with a sensitivity rating here at 97 and 100dB respectively. Total output capacity sits at +2kW per channel - again, fully actively coupled, so no intervening passive cross-overs to compromise an amp's power delivery and control over the driver. That’s one of the charms with active configuration: use Class A where it matters the most and needs the less wattage, and the higher power amps where it’s more in demand.

@phusis , good for you. It sounds like you are working on a great system. There are no passive crossovers in my system either, wouldn't do it any other way. The best crossover is no crossover, passive at least. In my system there is only one digital crossover for the subwoofers. Otherwise, the Sound Labs operate full range, 100 Hz to 20 kHz.  

@clearthinker, there are times when I wished I had not sold those Krell amps. It was not until I got the JC1's that I got that magic back. The Atma-Sphere amps are also class A. There are so many reports of their effectiveness with my speakers, hard to ignore. I'm warming up to getting a pair of MA2s. The alternatives are the JC1+ and the Pass Labs Xs 300s. That is quite a stretch money wise. I'll use my current JC1s to drive the subwoofers.  Do the Pass amps add another $60K worth of sound quality over the other two amps? The problem is there is no way to know without trying them which is difficult to do. I am probably not going to make a $60K gamble. The Atma-Spheres are enough of a stretch.

Speaking of Atma-Sphere, it seems we have not heard from Ralph lately. I hope he is OK.

Tight bass is very simply: when the signal stops, so does the woofer (in fact, the entire loudspeaker). To not "stop on a dime" is to produce "overhang". In the world of loudspeaker design, there is the concept of "critically" damped woofers, as well as over-damped. A Google search will lead one to lots of literature on the subject.

IMHO "tight" bass refers to the system's ability to cleanly differentiate [in a mono mix] between a double bass plucking and an underdamped bass kick drum beating at the same time without mixing the two up to any degree. many systems can't do this as well as they ought. 

Tight bass relates to timing.

When a Bass note is exercised if it reverberates or cant musically keep up with the song its timing is off and it's called not tight...

You could add "tunefull" and you bring in timbre and definition as well.