How to choose an upgraded tonearm.


In two recent threads on selecting an upgraded cartridge, some of you suggested a new tonearm was in order. Since I’ve never chosen a new tonearm, I’m asking you all for some advice on how to do so for that future event.

My current turntable is a VPI Classic 2 with a VPI JMW 10.5i unipivot tonearm. A new Lyra Kleos MC cartridge is on order. I’ll likely be changing to a gimbal style tonearm. The rest of the system is Magico A3 speakers, a Luxman 507uX MkII integrated amp, a Marants Ruby CD player, and a Shunyata Hydra Denali power conditioner.

What price range should an appropriate tonearm for the Lyra Kleos be in, that would also be in keeping with the price point of my Classic 2, The Classic 2 was in the $3-4,000 range, as is the Lyra Kleos. I’ll be purchasing new, not used, and will not be upgrading any other equipment than the tonearm.

Pardon some rookie questions, but what attributes should I be looking for in a quality tonearm? Who are some of the better known manufacturers, and which models of theirs might be workable? Are there other alternative to either a gimbal or unipvot tonearm? Are tonearms generally interchangeable between different manufacturers turntables? And what improvements in sound quality might be gained by upgrading my tonearm?

Since this is all new to me, any other advice you might have about things to consider would be greatly appreciated and will help kick off my research. Thanks,

Mike

skyscraper

I’ve run my SPU Royal N at ~3g and on my worst wavy warped records it’s failed to leave the groove or even produce audible mis tracking. As I mentioned above My arm in its heaviest form has an effective mass of 18g, the cartridge and adaptor weigh 15.7g and the quite long brass screws a bit over 2g so there is around 36g countering the 8μm/Nm @10Hz compliance. If the cartridge is becoming airborne then there’s a mismatch. My Decca Maroon in the Aro would be an example of the latter and that did leave the groove without a bit more mass at the headshell.

As the VPI arm is in hand put it to the test before contemplating replacing it, assuming you do your own setting  up and you’ll gain experience. It at least gives you a baseline.

"what are you referring to with "Lyra’s pre 3d/gimbal"? 

skyscraper,

I am referring to 8 or so years ago, BEFORE VPI developed the 3D and gimbal designs. VPI users mounting upper end Lyra's on their tables with standard arms.

You may have better luck with contact via Email info@vpiindustries.com

Maybe there is an arm board for aftermarket arms VPI offers? Another thing you can ask VPI about is if they have a gimbal blem/2nd's for discount.

I have had contact with Matt and he offered me a 3D.  I passed. Wasn't a big enough discount for me to jump. I probably could have negotiated a better deal for it, but wasn't that inspired at the moment. 

Yeti42. I’ll make sure the person doing the set up reconnects the anti-skating. Thank you for that advice. After trying to absorb all the knowledge you’ve imparted about different tonearms, it’s obvious you and Mijostyn both need to move here to Virginia to take care of this. Amazing and impressive. how much you know about various cartridges and the like..

I did do the set uo on my Ortofon 2M Black, but would likely be in over my head setting up the Lyra Kleos, even though valuable experience would be gained as you said. I’ll figure out how to install the VPI dual pivot mod, but that’s about the limit.in this arena.

Mijostyn, ,impressive you know how to do machining and can apply that skill to audio applications. I’ve been thinking on taking a course on machining and acquiring enough skill to facilitate restoring vintage woodworking machines, another hobby.. I’d love to get a Bridgeport, a nice lathe and some other equipment, But I’m getting off topic.

I’m going to look up all the arms you mentioned on the used market too, even though I don’t prefer to go there. I did see one Schroder CB used for $2000 which wasn’t too bad. I’ll call Matt at VPI and see if any of those you suggested can be retrofitted on the VPI base.

Tablejockey, thanks for the clarification.

Mike

Dear @skyscraper : Up grade the VPI tonearm to " dual pivot " and latter on think not to change the tonearm but the VPI TT/tonearm that in reality is an average/mediocre item.

The posts here said talk of tonearms at around 5K and all those are good options but for a different TT.

 

You could think in this extremely well regarded and " inexpensive " TT/tonearm: the Rega RP10:

 

https://www.the-ear.net/review-hardware/rega-rp10-turntable-tonearm

https://www.tonepublications.com/review/rega-rp10-turntable/

 

Mr. M.Fremer review on the 80K+ turntable manufactured by SAT model XD1 he used the SAT 50K+ tonearm and mounted the Lyra Etna Lambda and in that SAT overall review M.Fremer posted:

""

The XD1 shares some sonic characteristics with Rega’s revolutionary RP10 turntable: ultrafast, clean transients throughout the audible frequency range; tight, fast bass; revealing midrange transparency; and overall sonic stability and focus. All these characteristics result, apparently, from careful attention paid to structural rigidity and the removal or prevention of unwanted vibrational energy.

As good as the P10 is, it’s not an SAT XD1. ""

 

and the RP10 set you back the ridiculous 5.5K dollars including the tonearm:

 

 

 

 

 

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,

R.