Mijostyn, My only point was that the example shown is not relevant to the proof that the pivot should be level with the plane of the LP. He raises the AR XA tonearm pivot, causing the headshell to tilt up at the rear, in order to get it to move forward when it encounters a warp. That kind of loads the dice in his favor. It does not describe the most usual case, where the arm/headshell is parallel to the LP surface regardless of where the pivot is located in space. Since watching the video, I have figured out for myself that the principle is valid; the pivot ideally should lie in the plane of the LP surface. For a pivot close to but not quite in the plane of the LP surface, the putative increase in warp wow is probably not such a big deal I would say. I was surprised in the video that I could clearly hear a deviation in frequency from 1000Hz to 1002Hz. (I could hear 1002Hz almost as obviously as I could hear 1005Hz.) I don't really think I can hear that in real life; perhaps his instrument is damped enough that it doesn't display the actual peak readings for a brief pulse. Or my sense of pitch is better than I think.
How to choose an upgraded tonearm.
In two recent threads on selecting an upgraded cartridge, some of you suggested a new tonearm was in order. Since I’ve never chosen a new tonearm, I’m asking you all for some advice on how to do so for that future event.
My current turntable is a VPI Classic 2 with a VPI JMW 10.5i unipivot tonearm. A new Lyra Kleos MC cartridge is on order. I’ll likely be changing to a gimbal style tonearm. The rest of the system is Magico A3 speakers, a Luxman 507uX MkII integrated amp, a Marants Ruby CD player, and a Shunyata Hydra Denali power conditioner.
What price range should an appropriate tonearm for the Lyra Kleos be in, that would also be in keeping with the price point of my Classic 2, The Classic 2 was in the $3-4,000 range, as is the Lyra Kleos. I’ll be purchasing new, not used, and will not be upgrading any other equipment than the tonearm.
Pardon some rookie questions, but what attributes should I be looking for in a quality tonearm? Who are some of the better known manufacturers, and which models of theirs might be workable? Are there other alternative to either a gimbal or unipvot tonearm? Are tonearms generally interchangeable between different manufacturers turntables? And what improvements in sound quality might be gained by upgrading my tonearm?
Since this is all new to me, any other advice you might have about things to consider would be greatly appreciated and will help kick off my research. Thanks,
Mike
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@skyscraper : Looks as you really did not care enough when you read it the Rega links because the price is 5.7 K not 7K that’s the price including Rega cartridge.
VPI TT/tonearm you own is really an entry level and normally not always: entry level audio item is in the lower part of the manufacturer item models and this means inside mediocrity/average level, its price tells you about. That Classic VPI TT can work with the Fatboy or any top tonearm you like but that it can work does not means is a good " place to mount the FB along the Kleos.
I don’t care what you could buy but you already bougth the Kleos and that specific cartridge model along top Lyra models were mounted in that " inexpensive " Rega plattform/tonearm with excellent results for experienced gentlemans that know about quality level performance . As M.Fremer they mounted too other top cartridges coming from Dynavector and Ortofon with the same success. I made it to you an stupid advise when posted of that " second pivot " that in reality is not a true pivot and that does not solve the VPI tonearm problem you have for that Kleos. Next is a Lyra " warning " in his site for its cartridges:
" tonearms with rigid bearing(s), " but when we go to better tonearms is critical the plattform/TT where we want to mount it for it works at its best and you have not that kind of plattform/TT. I think you need a new TT/tonearm for that Kleos if you want really enjoy the best that that cartridge can shows you.
Yes, I’m still think that not only my second pivot advise was stupid one but the stand alone arm pod for you it is too.
R.
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@lewm , Yes, he is increasing the VTA when he does that but that is not what is causing the wow. Thanx for watching the video. I think you agree that it is an excellent primer. @skyscraper , Having looked at pictures of your table, you have a tonearm board screwed to the upper surface of the plinth. Using the same screw holes you can mount any 9 or 10" arm on any size tonearm board as long as the arms are surface mount. But in thinking about it @rauliruegas advice is probably the best. You might think about selling what you have as a unit and getting a new table/arm combination like a Rega RP 10 or a Sota Sapphire with a Rega RB 3000 arm. |
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