Why do I need power management if I have a great power cord?


Isn't it kind of unnecessary to additionally add a power conditioner if I have an expensive audio file grade Power cord connected to a component?

So you buy a Power conditioner from a hi-fi store and they say oh, you need a really good power cord to go with that and then another one to go from conditioner to the component. Do you need it all and why? Seems the last couple of feet before the component should be more than enough.

jumia

You don't need any of it, just a complete waste of money that enriches audio dealers. 

To atmasphere: I’m puzzled by your comment that this Nelson Pass quoted 48 Amps is “how much current is present when the power supply of the amp is shorted. It’s available to the output section in the form of charged capacitance. This is used to help reduce IMD in the output section and is not something that the output section can pass to the loudspeaker.” Perhaps I failed to see what you did there; but I thought that the extended time that my tube amp can drive my speakers from the source when I turn the tube amp off (while the source is still playing) was, in fact, the capacitors discharging through the speakers. At least that was a comment I remember John Atkinson making in a Stereophile review of a tube amp that I read online. Other contributors to this forum also seem to assume that the capacitor banks are there to help the amplifier deliver transients to the speakers outside the range of their normal current demands. I’m not (yet) experienced in building amplifiers, but I am intensely interested in understanding how they work. If, as you say, the speakers are in series with the amp’s output terminals, and I never considered them that way before, but I guess they are, then they would definitely need current to drive them. Of course, your linked discussion clarifies their rather intimate relationship (you can’t have one without the other [current without voltage] if power is being produced or consumed). Further, the ‘transients’ at lower frequency, i. e., the ‘attack’ of a bass drum strike would require more power than a ‘transient’ of a high-hat cymbal strike because its relative duration would be longer. Just thinking out loud, here.

On second thought, if ‘what you were doing there,’ is saying that if the power supply is being shorted to produce 48 Amps; there isn’t going to be anything near 48 amps at the output terminals —at the same moment in time; then I totally get ‘what you did there’ —you made a joke, which this discussion sorely needs. 👍

 

Alternatively, if you are saying that 48 Amps cannot be used both for Intermodulation distortion AND output at the speaker terminals, then I accept that as well, as current can only be ‘consumed’ once in any circuit, I suppose.

I must be really really stupid not to understand much of these past several posts. I would hope the people commenting in such a technically proficient way would recognize that most readers have no clue what they’re saying.

There in lies a huge challenge, very very technical issues confounded buy those who don’t explain themselves very well. Very unfortunate as what they say is of value but lacks clarity.

They exhibit tremendous effort to achieve improved Sonic Quality I hope, and yet it has limited value to me because I am really really stupid I guess.

The marketing of these products can be horrible as the manufacturers don’t really do much to improve an understanding of technical information. Most dealers don’t understand all this. There have been noted exceptions along the way but still it is not explained very well.

I just installed a dedicated circuit for my system.  I installed 10 awg solid copper.  Although 10 awg supports up to 30amp, I used a 20amp breaker.  More than I need.  I also installed a 240V circuit.  I needed it since I bought a European amp that only uses 240V.  But I'm glad to have it for any future amps as doubling the voltage cuts the current in half for the same power.  This makes your amp feel like it is just sitting next to the power plant with a huge cord.  I too highly recommend running your amp at 240volts instead of 120 if possible.

To install 240V circuit the marginal cost increase compared to the 120V circuit is not much.  An extra breaker (perhaps $10) and 3 conductor vs 2 conductor wire, and then a slightly more expensive outlet.  the main cost of the circuit is all the labor and work inside the wall and cutting wallboard and replacing it.  All of that doesn't change when you install the 240V circuit with your 120V circuit.

Doubling the diameter of a wire increases cross sectional area, and approximate power carrying capability, 4 times, not 2.

The power delivered to the speaker is almost irrelevant to the power the amp needs, especially for class A.  Not sure why that discussion broke out.  My class A 35 WPC amp, that I run at about 1 wpc 99% of the time, uses 400 wpc, either at idle or at max volume.

I reference people back to page one to the post I made with a quote from the AR user manual where Audio Research requires a 20 amp, 12 awg circuit for a 75 wpc class AB tube amp.  I know many of you don't believe it can be true unless you hear it from an OEM so it is there in black and white.  I copied and pasted it.

Jerry

I have yet to hear a conditioner that didnt take away as much as it gave. Far better to start with dedicated lines properly done and then experiment.