My First DIY Power Cable

Years back I provided to a few hundred A'goners cheap all-Teflon 13 and 11AWG power cable kits, and star-ground power boxes using the fireproof Belden 83000 series starquad iterations. Indeed, the included shielding was useless, but the fluorocarbon (Teflon) dielectric throughout was real.  If you want to make one yourself chase a length of 83754 (4x16AWG), connect it as 2x13 using nice Hubbel and WattGate-quality IEC and be mighty happy with the result.  These are only POWER cables...NOT signal cables. Don't get carried away with silly-priced connector jewelry. If you want a smaller cable (13AWG) for front end use use 83704 (4x14) instead. Both are better than the ubiquitous and cumbersome 83803 that should be relegated only for in-wall use as a dedicated 12AWG line for code purposes. Have fun.

I have a little experience with Viborg and it's not good.  I know we're talking about power cords here, but this says a lot about the company.

https://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=cables&m=181633

BTW their is a direction on the cable, you have to look at it under a 100-1000x. You'll see how it was pushed through the extrusion dies. That is the single best thing you can do to build your cable. Get the direction right, don't touch the exposed wire with your hands/fingers and use contact enhancers before you tighten the securement screws. 

@helmholtzsoul how does the direction matter when the RCAs are carrying an AC signal?
Does it only help one side of the signal (like the +V side)?

… and use contact enhancers before you tighten the securement screws. 

Are screws better than soldering?
(Most of the high end cables are soldered or welded, which would seem to provide the most contact.)

Getting back into high(ish) end after a 15 year hiatus. At 63 my tinnitus prevents me from jumping in too deeply. Enjoying my Sansui AU-717 and my Castle Richmonds, REL Storm ll, MMF-7 ‘table with Goldring Eroica cart. All old stuff but pleasing to my aging ears.

Ok, I have to ask. My entire house is wired with hundreds of feet of $2/foot Romex. Right up to the outlet. Is it logical to spend upwards of $3k to bring it the last 6 feet? Why not just make a cord out of the same Romex?

An honest question.

Not too likley @chocaholic 

If it sounds good, it is harder “to fix it” from there, than if it was bad with a real problem.