New Dedicated Line - Almost No improvement


Hello,

Newbie here and electrical idiot. Just moved to a new to us house in Tampa. Before we moved in I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it's own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge and two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.

When I hooked up the EMI meter in my old house, which didn't have a dedicated line, the reading was usually around 26 or so IIRC. At the new house the outlets are 89 usually and the dedicated line is usually around 82 - so not much help for the cost of the "project" and pretty noisy.

Also, when the ac /hvac is running the meter reads about 100 points higher (!) for both the regular outlets and the dedicated Furutechs. Not good.

Thoughts? Does the dedicated line need it's own breaker box? 

I'm also considering a line conditioner but wanted to see what could be done here. Thanks.

laynes

There are power requirement "believers" and power requirement skeptics.  I'm on the side of the believers with the following caveats:

1.  You don't need an expensive power cable, just a heavy one.

2.  Many expensive power cables fail at condition1 above.

So I see why some of the skeptics treat expensive cables as snake oil.  On the other hand, some of the skeptics think you can size a power cord based on an amps normal current draw  This ignores dynamics and will generally result in disappointing results.

I recently bought a wonderful amp on the used market that there is a 2 year wait for new.  I was very happy to get it.  The selling included the aftermarket power cord that he had bought to use with it.  I looked it up.  It cost $300 and was 18 gauge.  I wouldn't even use that cord on a 15w streamer.  No wonder he sold the amp.

I googled the power cord that the OP uses and found paragraph after paragraph of flowery prose about it but never mentioned was the gauge of the wire.  Would you buy an amp that had 3 pages of description but wouldn't tell you how many watts per channel?

So my advice is to always use a heavy power cord (I use 10 awg, because they are easy to get).  Whether you use a $50 generic one or a $2000 high end one is up to you but make sure it is at least 12, preferably 10, awg.

Jerry

need to look at your panel, you want if possible to have the dedicated line on the opposite LEG of the panel from motors; AC, Freezer, Fridge…. Start there….

Tomic is correct. Before putting the blame on the power grid, separate the noise producing appliances and devices in your home. Opposite Leg of your audio and placement of those breakers away from audio, ie, audio on top of panel, A/C, fridge at bottom of panel on opposite Leg. This may help.

 

The problem is dedicated lines will never be free of noise, all electricals share a common ground and neutral.

I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it’s own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge and two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.

two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.

Were the outlets pre burned in? If not they need to be burned in. Search the archives for the amount of time needed.

As for ac noise on the ac mains... It can be caused by many things. You need to hire either an electrician with a Power Quality Analyzer or hire a Power Quality Testing Company to check for excessive harmonic distortion on the AC mains.

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