New Dedicated Line - Almost No improvement


Hello,

Newbie here and electrical idiot. Just moved to a new to us house in Tampa. Before we moved in I had an electrician put in a dedicated line (has it's own breaker switch) which is 10 gauge and two Furutech GTX-D outlets - Rhodium.

When I hooked up the EMI meter in my old house, which didn't have a dedicated line, the reading was usually around 26 or so IIRC. At the new house the outlets are 89 usually and the dedicated line is usually around 82 - so not much help for the cost of the "project" and pretty noisy.

Also, when the ac /hvac is running the meter reads about 100 points higher (!) for both the regular outlets and the dedicated Furutechs. Not good.

Thoughts? Does the dedicated line need it's own breaker box? 

I'm also considering a line conditioner but wanted to see what could be done here. Thanks.

laynes

Hi cdc, I discussed this some in this post: "Theaudioamp – good questions. I have done very little listening so far – mostly because of the wife-factor but also time – I haven’t had time to set up my cart yet so only have CDs. I have a Ruby K1 which I read is a good cd player but my vinyl blows away 90% of my CDs. I did just listen to Murder by Numbers (just found out this song was never released on vinyl) fairly loud so I could pay attention. I should have picked a different song or CD rather because there aren’t any extended quiet sections (silent passages). I’ll have to report back after I mount and align my cart and then will put on the Wall which has lots of quiet time. Right now I’m prepping the room as much as possible…doing what I can."

I just ordered some Focal Stellias which will be here later next week and hopefully I will have time to mount my cart and do some serious listening.

On that note, I haven't had much time to investigate some of the great suggestions in this thread but wanted to give this info which is my panel box. I was going to uplaod a pic but don't see how that is possible here w/o a link.

Anyway here is the list of stuff on the right side:

39. Stereo

37. Garage USBs (never use these)

33 & 31, Mini split (garage a/c which I only run when I'm in the garage)

29 clothes washer

27, mbr something or other

25 mbr powder room

23 mbr, something or other

21 DR and LR

19 garage door openers

17 master bath and study 

15 utility room and spare brs 2 & 3

13, outlets for garage, outdoor and pool

11 heat

9 heat

7 range

5 range

3 air

1 I think it says "conditioner Leed 20-A"

I'm not sure why heat has 2 switches and air has 1. We are in Tampa and have a single hvac unit. As mentioned earier the EMI reader jumps 100 points when the a/c is running so I'm thinking to maybe move the stereo switch to the other side (?). The other side has the washer and dryer but those can be stopped while listening (a/c cannot down here). Also the hot water heater is on the otehr side. Maybe I should move some of these aroudn so the bigger draws are on one side and the stereo switch is on the side of the smaller draws? 

The electrian will be here on Weds for other stuff but by then I will have a list of questions for him from the posts here and hopefully we can come up with somehing. 

But if not - as pointed out - an EMI reading is apparently worthless and I may not even notice the sound. We've only been here 3 weeks and still unpacking so have had little free time - but that should change some in the next few weeks when all these other projects and unpacking. is finsihed. 

 

 

 

@laynes 

The heater (or furnace) requires a dual-core breaker when current is 30A or higher. It takes up two breaker positions and uses both Legs of the electrical service.

15 & 20V standard breakers are used in lower current situations.

You listed one Leg in your panel, can you list the other phase?

Electricians when installing a panel try to even the load on each Leg. IOW, They’re trying to achieve close to equal current-draw on each leg. When installing an audio system on one leg, some sacrifices have to be made, such as moving a high amperage appliance which may cause noise to the opposite leg as the audio circuit.

lowrider57’s avatar

Example:

Courtesy of Glen B, (AA member)

https://www.audioasylum.com/messages/tweaks/146113/re-yes

Here is a photo of the interior of a main lug only panel. Note the breaker connecting bus tie for each each breaker space.

Siemens PN3048L1125C PN Series 125 Amp 30-Space ...

 

From an above post of mine.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~

As for the layout of the branch circuit breakers in an electrical panel:

Line 1 and Line 2 alternate with one another down each side of the electrical panel.

Odd breaker numbers are on the left side. Even breaker numbers on the right side. If you look closely at the breakers metal panel dead front you should see the numbers. Usually stamped into the metal. If you can’t see them here is how the breakers are numbered. (Note: For standard sized 1" single pole breakers. A 2 pole breaker takes up two 1" spaces.)

 

L1 = Line 1. (Leg, Bus)

L2 = Line 2. (Leg, Bus)

brk = breaker. (Or unused breaker space.)

 

L1 >> brk #1 ...... brk #2

L2 >> brk #3 ....... brk #4

L1 >> brk #5 ....... brk #6

L2 >> brk #7 ....... brk #8

L1 >> brk #9 ....... brk #10

L2 >> brk #11 ..... brk #12

L1 >> brk #13 .... brk #14

And so on down each side of the panel.

Note breaker space #39 and breaker space #40 share the same breaker connecting bus tie. Both 39 and 40 are connected to Line 2 bus, Leg.

Jim

I agree with giving the system more time. I had a new sub panel, wiring etc installed in my basement while we were in the process of finishing it. I took the system I had been listening to for months and moved it into the basement and it sounded horrible. After more play time the system settled in a sounded good again. Wire break in may not make sense on paper but my experience says it is real. Good luck!