Using battery power to go off the City's power grid


I'm using a Bluetti AC200MAX 2,200 watt expandable power station to take my system off the city's power grid.  It runs off a lithium ion phosphate battery with a 4,800 watt pure sine wave inverter. My total system only takes about 450 watts so I have never heard the fan kick on - it is totally silent. The music comes from a completely black background, with a huge soundstage that sounds very natural. I know that Ric Schultz has talked about these types of setups and there is a very expensive Stromtank battery system that is marketed to audiophiles. Anyone else tried this type of setup in their audio system?

Here is a link to a review:

 

128x128sbayne

Thanks.  So I can take a ground wire and stick it into the 3rd pin in an unused outlet on a power strip?  Are there good ground wire ends with a thick single plug for a secure connection into the 3rd pin?

Yup....just buy a good three prong plug and put a large guage wire (12 gauge is fine) into the third pin only.....plug it into your strip or the wall and.....attach the other end of the wire to the inverter.  Any hardware store will have the plug and sell house wire by the foot....stranded wire is way easier to work with.

@viber6 fyi- i use 2 agm 100wh batteries with my  24v powerbright pure sine wave inverter for a total of 2400wh. I have 2 of these outlet setup’s on both sides of my home.  Each outlet set up cost me less than $500.  Already had solar set up to feed both controllers. (I could easily expand to 4 batteries if more time is needed.)

As for grounding, I buy an inexpensive audio power audio cord on amazon that has plugs that can be removed and take all 3 wires and connect them to the ground only on the male plug.  Then on the female plug I replace it with a spade to use it as a ground only connection.  Works well for my DIY ground boxes as well.

 

Viber,

I never said the larger Giandel is better in any way than a smaller one. Show me where I said that? Do you just make stuff up? The larger one can do more current (which most people do not need) and will turn on its fan at higher power. No one has A/Bed inverters that I know of except my friend who said the Ecoflow Pro beat the Goal Zero Yeti 3000 and both where trounced big time by the 5000 watt Giandel. That is all I know. We are in new territory here.....this is why I suggested you or someone buy both the large and small Giandel, the Bluetti and have a comparison party. You could A/B cheaper heavy AGM batteries with LifePo4 batteries, as well.

NO ONE KNOWS ANYTHING. How many brands of power amp are there? They all sound different.....How many brands of inverters are there? They all sound different. I personally would go for the Giandel because my friend (who has an $80K super revealing tweako system using super modified Apogee speakers) is the one that tested the inverters......he has great ears.....even listens to symphonies.....and jazz and pop and opera and rock and oldies, etc. Has both super vinyl system using Lithuanian field coil cartridge and r to r DAC.......every part in his system selected for sound.....and a very good room.

This thread's contributors are killing me with how this power (Conundrum)? 

 Which most of us here have realized.

How you are approaching it.

I think what caught my eye here at first was the nomenclature and its use in this thread. And beginning with that. "Small detail though it is really". But, I have noticed over the years that this approach? It tends to pigeon-hole those in the process of advancements in this area.  It is a direction that I find, "As I have watched this several times".  It always ends with not much in the way of any "real" substantiative progress which one may then (Pass-on) to the next of us.   

It also has the tendency to be very frustrating for most. With a curve you could plot that I believe would always show that the ones invested most heavily in funds on this. Being those with the highest 'Anger Management" issues by the time they realize they have just wasted all of those capital gains on what becomes another audiophile rant, yelling 'Snake oil"! As they de-volve into,

 Followers of "Bose".

We all know how this horribly, debilitating disease "Audiophilia" ends...

"No-One" ever gets out alive!

So, we are just going to have to make the best of it! Anyway, if you have stuck with me though all of that!

I know a bit about what we call, "Power". Not everything, But a bit. And for a long, long time I have worked on this problem, "As time, and other pursuits have allowed".

Your group seems to be awfully "stuck" on that one object, The "Inverter".

I am not sure why though.

The largest problem I see with this thread though is in its initial posed question. Because I do not think that "And please correct me if I am wrong".  (Which happens with greater and greater frequency these days! I must admit)!

But I do not see or may have missed where much "Or any" research or serious study was done as to the "Why" you would need or want an inverter. And then, assoc. gear and etcetera.

Ok, "I guess I shall (start), as it were, "Here'!

Typically, we humans, live in "homes". "Homes" must have "Power". 

"Yes", as in "legally". (At least here in the USA...). OR, "No legally habitable address"! 

 That power must be, "certified". by a governmentally Regulated, "Utility Co.".

"You may go, "Off-Grid" after it is built. But until you do that?  You have to at some point have at minimum. A "business assoc." with a power utility co. 

And a power bill.

Most will keep this assoc. 

Now, I could begin here and pick just this apart for several hours.

'Yes really"! But I am trying to actually help with this problem, "Power" and boring you to death would be counterproductive. So just a few main points.

Geography. This will actually matter..

For many reasons, but for this conversation?

 It is mainly related to "Geology".

Where this relates to everyone here? "Grounding", Um, which then relates strongly too geology, "I.E.- Strata mineral make-up. heavy metals density per sq. yd., local aquifers available, depth and distancing. and on and on.

 But mainly grounding,

Your power, "Point of demarcation". And where you are located within your, "Local power grid". Also,-the quality of that infrastructure and it's age. And a hundred other things.

Much of this you do not, "You shall think at first" have any control over. 

But you DO!

In fact, the above mentioned, "Schneider Electric". They will help you by monitoring, evaluating, and even documenting irregularities -"ANY" PROBLEMS, In your home OR business electrical system. And they will do this...

FOR FREE! And also generate monthly, quarterly and annual reports for you.

All of which, by the way, are "Legally certified".

That fact "Could" be important to you at some point.

Nope, not kidding, "Call them". They make the majority of home "UPS" systems in the USA, "As far as I know anyway". I own seven or eight from them currently.

Schneider Elec.? It IS -"APC" corp.

Why might you have them do this? "Man-o-man, I feel like I have just begun a novel..."

I need you guy's to think on this next a little bit to understand the full ramifications of it.

When residential electrical installations "As in regulated in any way" began in the early 1900's. The household. single phase voltage was (100V). And all devices designed for use in home was meant for a system providing a nominal, (100V). (+-5%). The 1930's? = (105V). By the 1950's that was up 110V. 1970's = 115V.

In the 1990's it was officially raised again to the current 120V. (Nominal +-5%)

That (+-5%)  value is very important. "Especially" if you are an avid "Audiophile" and can hear differences in your gear. 

Beyond that (+-5%) tolerance? Almost nothing electronic will work as designed. "It simply cannot"! What gear appears to work is being taxed very hard and will fail prematurely. And the internal "clock" or clocking? Will be way off too. A 5% Voltage irregularity typically yields a (8-9%) phasing discrepancy and more.

"Which plays hell on "Imaging and resolution"!

 So unless you live in a basically, "New" home? And have all "Fairly" new audio gear? You may have an electrical "audio" issue. 

 OR, If you say, live in a new home but you are in love with that 1960's class A amp and pre?

But it always sounds horrid regardless of the CD you play or the contemporary source electronics used.

This, "may" be a cause...

 And it is not just audio gear that suffers. If you plug it in? It's going to have an issue. Because engineering parameters are engineering parameters.

How much of an issue? That depends....

But possible to fix. Easy to address at times also. But not always.

I need a break,  But have a bit more to say about this.

 But anyone taking issue with any of this? Please correct me. Like I said...

" I have been wrong before". I will be wrong again.

 And I am always up to learn more!