Power cords or power conditioner
I’m at a cross roads and I’m looking for some advice from those have have gone down this road. I recently added a 2 channel integrated amplifier to improve my 2 channel performance. I had been using my Datasat LS-10 for music and while it sounded really nice, it was missing the depth and clarity that I know my speakers are capable of. My speakers are KEF Reference 3s, rest of my 2 channel set is is as follows:
Luxman L 509x
Luxman D-03x
Roon Nucleus Plus
Lumin U2 Mini
Transparent Audio Super speaker cables
Nordorst Red Dawn XLR, Blue Heaven USB
Wire World Platinum USB
All power cables are DYI using Oyaide Tsunami V2 cable
So what I feel I am missing is that 3D holographic sound stage. It was there with the Luxman 509 when I demo’d it, but I am unable to get that experience at my house. I feel that majority of equipment is up to the task but I am curious if I should ad a top shelf power condtioner like a Shunyata Triton or Torus AVR20 into the system or replace my Intergrated’s power cord with a Shunyata Alpha NC? I’m getting tapped out, so for now it can only be one or the other.
Or should I skip the above and focus on room treatments?
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@secretguy I believe you, and I think you’ve formulated your statement in the best way possible when you stated
I don’t doubt that at all and I think that’s totally cool. Many reasons why that could be. |
I know everybody is different but to this day best improvement I’ve experienced was adding a power conditioner. I added a Pass Seymour outlet and was a little taken back with what I heard so decided to try a Running Springs Hayley almost 20 years ago.
Noise floor went black from what it was. Every musician in the sound stage had there own space/air around them. I had never heard anything like that, with every move up the Running Springs line was an improvement.
Maybe everyone’s system reacts different but I have always used a passive conditioner since the day I put the Running Springs in my system. Power cables are also as important in my room. They all have there own flavor which makes things fun. Don’t even get me talking about high end outlets. |
I agree with most here that speaker placement and room treatments is the place to start. You need to get that right first. The biggest thing that made an impact to soundstage depth for me is having the speakers towed out, so that they are almost firing straight ahead. But that applies to my B&W 802’s, it might be different for you. Definitely suggest playing with toeing out your speakers though, in addition to the other suggestions regarding speaker placement. After that, for sure, I find power cables (and other cabling) and conditioners all play into the degree of soundstage depth as well. However I found that the few conditioners I tried altered the tonal balance adversely. I found that the Torus RM20 (which is not a conditioner but rather a big honking isolation transformer that weighs 90 pounds - super simple and super effective) was far more even handed and has more instantaneous current supply than your amp could ever want. Torus told me that moving up to the more expensive AVR20 is pointless provided your AC supply stays within 4V of 120VAC. They suggested I purchase a Kill-A-Watt meter from Amazon, which I did, and I found my voltage to be fine. So I stuck with the RM20. After testing my amp (Gryphon Diablo 300 integrated) connected to the Torus and to the wall, I found it was actually best through the Torus. This was NOT the case with the Audioquest Niagara 5000 I demoed where my amp sounded unquestionably better connected directly to the wall.
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One clarification - when I mentioned that the Torus is not a conditioner, I meant not in the traditional sense. Rather than filtering noise out, it electrically isolates your system from your house’s AC. Interestingly, it was Nordost who first turned me on to Torus, when I had some questions about my Valhalla 2 speaker cables. They told me they thought conditioners can be tricky and unpredictable and yes, they also mentioned they can have an effect on tonal balance. They then suggested I look into Torus, along with another industry-veteran contact of mine who also strongly suggested Torus. The RM20 definitely helps with soundstage depth. Details become more coherent, and I find that mid and upper detail are prerequisites for soundstage depth. Or maybe they just happen to always go together, not sure. But as mentioned speaker position and room treatment first… And, dare I say it given the controversy in my other thread regarding power cord length: I think @ghdprentice found that when comparing like power cords of differing lengths, the longer cord offered a deeper soundstage? His test was with Audioquest Hurricanes. And while I think of it - in my experience if you are using a USB cord shorter than 1.5m that will also clobber your soundstage depth somewhat and will compress everything more. I did this test with two Audioquest Diamond USB cords and two Nordost Valhalla 2 USB cords. The longer cords from both manufacturers were blatantly better than the shorter cords in terms of openness, detail and soundstage depth. I thought it might be a burn in issue at first so I actually ran the cords hundreds of hours, with no change - longer cords were superior. So you might want to ensure you have no ultra short USB cables.
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- 122 posts total