Post binding for crude tone control

I hate to break it to you, but if a speaker is inherently too hot on top, it is a losing battle trying to change that, as you are attempting to change its core voicing. No amount of cable swapping, binding post configurations, or EQing will solve this. Your best bet is to find speakers that sound more balanced to your ears... you'll save yourself a lot of grief, believe me.

While it is not pretty and gold plated, try a couple of lengths of copper wire and see if it makes a difference. If you like it, get a couple of lengths of AQ or Cardas or whatever speaker cable you prefer. You’ll be amazed how crappy those shiny medal plates are.

All the best.

bojack---do you know this from personal experimentation?  Perhaps that hot top end is only a matter of synergy and yes, changing cables, plugs, & outlets can solve this issue.  I have gone through this with an overly bright midrange on a pair of large DIY speakers I bought some years ago akin to Legacy Focus using Eton drivers.  I thought gold would smooth out the mids but actually, it seemed to exacerbate the problem.  Tubes in the source did help some using either a Raysonic 228 or a Modwright Oppo BDP83 SE but what really did the trick was much better cabling and getting all the gold out of my system.  My wires are mostly DIY silver plated solid core copper.  I went exclusively to Oyaide 004 and 046 plugs and my outlets are all Cruze Audio Maestros and there is significantly more detail but the mids aren't as pushed forward and sound more natural  without the bite.  There is no reason the OP couldn't achieve the same results with his hot top end doing nothing more than improving the jumpers or tri-wiring.  Along those same lines, I've found the IeGO 8095 rhodium over PURE silver plug to be both very detailed and extended and yet somehow able to smooth out an aggressive top end and brightness in the midrange.  So bojack, nothing personal but I'll have to disagree with you on this one

I have SCM40’s too that replaced SCM 35’s. I have biwired them, using the stock jumpers. I had originally tried fancy jumpers from Cardas, but the sound was smoothed too much. I was surprised that I preferred the stock jumper plates.

These speakers benefit from biwiring, in my opinion. My SCM40’s are not bright or hard at all. The SCM35’s could be bright and hard on poorly recorded material.

Binding cables to one of the bass driver's posts, and to one of the tweeter's posts - I wonder if this really works, or ever observable, but good idea nevertheless - to try. Thanks.