Ok... So, crossover between panel and woofersx2 at 400Hz... I don’t think I would try and bi-amp with an AVR like that... You could be pushing 150 watts x 4 just for RMS... And when panels dive to 2 ohms your pulling 150 x 2 per channel (std) for the woofers and 150 x 3 (8, 4, 2 ohms with a doubling AVR/Amp) per channel... Ouch!!! No wonder you would have a thermal problem and clipping... Wonder what the total wattage output of that AVR can handle is... Spec is 150 watts per channel in _Stereo mode_ I read that as 2 channel... And I don’t see anything about multichannel mode... Also not sure how you would drive 2 left and 2 right stereo channels to bi-amp from an AVR like that... And how would driver time alignment work out... Speaker placement and time alinement is critical with these ESL hybrids... Hoping you have your room acoustics in order and use something like REW to get your speaker placement and room right...
Electrostatic Speakers Vs. Horn/component Tweeter
I’m curious… when a horn or tweeter goes bad, it’s clearly obvious. The driver is shot and the audio sounds clipped and distorted. Electrostatic however, have massive surface areas and use static electricity to vibrate the material…. So when an electrostatic speaker goes bad, what actually happens to cause it to go bad, and does it go bad like a tweeter, where it goes from sounding fine to sounding like crap in a split second? Or will an electrostatic speaker slowly decay over time, so you don’t notice it initially, and then one day, it just doesn’t sound as good as you remember it sounding? If an electrostatic speaker goes bad, what causes it? Is it torn material? Is it something where you can replace a single small part? Or do you typically have to replace the entire panel?
I’ve come across plenty of blown regular speakers in my life, but never a blown (if that’s even possible) electrostatic speaker.
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- 18 posts total
- 18 posts total