It might help if you clarify which ESLs you have... I have the original Motion ESLs... Did drive them with a Yamaha AVR... No thermal issues... Now drive them with a small McIntosh MC152... No problem with those autoformers... You might want to find an AMP that "maps" to your ESLs and does not just double as ohms dip... As those ESLs will dive into the lows ohms at high frequencies, unlike orthodox speakers which dive towards low ohms at low frequencies...
Electrostatic Speakers Vs. Horn/component Tweeter
I’m curious… when a horn or tweeter goes bad, it’s clearly obvious. The driver is shot and the audio sounds clipped and distorted. Electrostatic however, have massive surface areas and use static electricity to vibrate the material…. So when an electrostatic speaker goes bad, what actually happens to cause it to go bad, and does it go bad like a tweeter, where it goes from sounding fine to sounding like crap in a split second? Or will an electrostatic speaker slowly decay over time, so you don’t notice it initially, and then one day, it just doesn’t sound as good as you remember it sounding? If an electrostatic speaker goes bad, what causes it? Is it torn material? Is it something where you can replace a single small part? Or do you typically have to replace the entire panel?
I’ve come across plenty of blown regular speakers in my life, but never a blown (if that’s even possible) electrostatic speaker.
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- 18 posts total
- 18 posts total