Elevate Floorstanders to Ear Level?

C'mon Steve, trust Mapleshade and try sitting on the floor!!

Actually, the speakers elevated to ear level sound much better when compared to the floor. Could be my unique room acoustics which may influence the result. I like it!

Speaker elevation of floor standers(especially shorter 2 ways) seems like a variable that doesn't get talked about all that much. I agree with recommendations to try different heights for yourself. With Totem Forests in my room (I'm listening from about 7-8 feet away with them elevated ~3-4"); I also went for some time with about double that elevation). Higher (obviously) results in brighter, perhaps more detail. Lower elevation = more bass. At least that is my experience. Go to TJ Maxx or other discounter and find some hardwood cutting boards to use as inexpensive platforms.

You can raise the speaker one foot or you can tilt it back with similar results. However, raising the speaker will change the tonal balance due to distancing the speaker from a critical room boundry, the floor. This is the reason for Mapleshade's phylosophy of keeping the speaker close to the floor while tilting it back to aim the drivers at your ear level. I am not sure of the benefits with a desk sitting between you and your speakers. Try it and see if you like it.

The main idea with that is to get the tweeter a bit *above* ear height. What that does is smooth out a response wrinkle in the *upper mids*, not in the HF range...it's just that the usually quoted "tweeter above ear height" refers to the fact that the mid driver is virtually always located right underneath it. One thing you might want to look at though is the bass response. If you have floor standers then raising them may take a little off the bottom-end response, *unless* you can provide some type of front baffle that goes from the floor to the bottom of the speaker cabinet...that recouples the bass to the floor. Even stand-mounted monitors can benefit from that idea, preserving low-end response that would otherwise be wasted. The material be anything that's relatively rigid, even cardboard, so you can use any sort of wood or tile or whatever that has suitable appearance - as long as there is no air gap along the front of the whole of the speaker cabinet from the woofers down to the floor. With my floorstanders i wound up making a pair of stands (with flat fronts) about 7" high and that smoothed the upper mids out for without decoupling the bass. Regards. John