@facten Yes, I put the Audio Magic M-1 fuse in the Jay’s MK3 also, HUGE improvement. In the CD transport the stock fuse was so bad it actually caused distortion, and sometimes crackling, because it was loose in its fusel lodge. I secured it with Stabilint 22 annd it improved sound, but replacing the fuse altogether completely fixed the distortions and I could hear a much cleaner sound in my extremely revealing system. I swear by these Audio Magic beeswax fuses, if you have high end gear you will notice a difference. But in my low end marantz subwoofer amp there was no audible difference in putting the $200 Synergistic purple fuse in it. So I believe the audible differences are compketely based on the quality of components used in the system. An all black lifepo4 powered system on GR-Research NX speakers will hear fuse changes easily and it won’t be subtle, but if you’re running Klipsch’s on marantz don’t even waste your money. Truth anyhow.
Streamers and their Fuses
I purchased the Aurender W20SE back in August and ran it on the stock 5 cent generic 2 amp 5mmx20mm slow burn fuse in it’s FURUTECH FI-03 Rhodium plated IEC Inlet. It sounds amazing in stock form the last 3 months… But 3 weeks ago I decided to upgrade the fuse in the W20SE to the Magic Audio Masterpiece M-1. The difference is not subtle. It feels like the potential of the streamer is unlocked, the detail, clarity and richness of tonal transparency is entirely transformed. My goal in HiFi is always holographic imaging of accurate instrument separation, this was improved as well. It is such a startling discovery I cannot listen to my Jay’s Audio MK3-CDT3 CD transport anymore, whereas before the fuse upgrade the CD transport was clearly the higher quality sound reproduction.
Anyone else experienced shocking results from upgrading their streamer’s fuse? I’d love to hear your feedback. All I can say is after burning this Audio Magic m-1 masterpiece in for a week it’s the only fuse I’ll put in my HiFi gear from now on. The purple fuse from Synergistic Research was my previous go to, but the audio magic m-1 is far superior in every possible way imho. 😉
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@brandonhifi Yes you need a 10Mhz 75 Ohm master clock for your Aurender and CD player. Just get a Chinese one to start with but buy specific 75 Ohm clock cables, not BNC digital cables. The cables must be the same manufacturer and same length for best results. Good cables are $2k+ use 1m or less. |
Good wisdom. I got one tonight. I got the Paul Pang Audio PPA OCXO 10M Master Clock for $575 here on Audiogon. I’ll get clock cables next. Exciting new HiFi realm. Thanks for the help. I honestly don’t understand how wiring works from master clock to the 2 sources. Are they looped, or are they just both plugged in to the clock, why do both the Jay’s and the Aurender have 2 bnc clock terminals? I’ve been studying it for awhile but this area of HiFi is still a mystery to me. |
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