I realize most subs are active speakers but this topic belongs in a new thread, (Bassaholics Anonymous?) Can we get back to the thread topic of active speakers and the confusion surrounding them?
Powered speakers show audiophiles are confused
17 of 23 speakers in my studio and home theater systems are internally powered. My studio system is all Genelec and sounds very accurate. I know the best new concert and studio speakers are internally powered there are great technical reasons to design a speaker and an amp synergistically, this concept is much more important to sound quality than the vibration systems we often buy. How can an audiophile justify a vibration system of any sort with this in mind.
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I second the opinion that horn loaded subs in the corners are hard to beat. I use Bill Fitzmaurice designed HT Tuba corner horn loaded subs. They are 18 cubic feet each. In my fully horn loaded DIY DEQX DSP equalized system the output at 25 Hz is identical to the output of the 1 kHz reference tone with a roll off of about 18 dB/octave below 25 Hz. I use 96 dB/octave roll offs for all crossovers. Resonances at room modes were a problem so I sacrificed seven or eight dB of sensitivity with the subs to EQ by pulling down peaks. The horn loaded subs are so sensitive that after that seven or eight dB reduction they still have a sensitivity of 96 or 97 dB. The final result is very tuneful, powerful, articulate bass that goes way down deep. |
@kingharold , the pics look stunning in your virtual system, beautiful wood finishes. |
@kota1 I need your help. I have 2x JL Audio Fathom f113v2 Subs and they hum, this is the worst thing about powered speakers. They have 3000W amps, I have spent a fortune in power 2x P20 power regenerators from PS Audio. The subs hum doesn't change when I unplug the audio. Both speakers sound the same and I didn't buy them at the same time, I can be stupidly picky but have you ever heard of these subs or perhaps big amps in small boxes being noisy? |
@donavabdear , if it is both subs I doubt they are both defective. Here is a trouble shooting sequence that might help: 1) Take one sub to a different room, on a different breaker. Turn the volume down to 0, then plug it in WITHOUT any interconnects plugged in. Turn it up from 0 to max and notice if hum engages. If it does then do same with other sub. If they both hum without any components plugged in it might be an issue on the powerline and I would try the DC Blocker from Audiolab. Amazon has a 30 day return. 2) If you don’t get a hum take it back to your room and try a different cable (XLR/RCA). Repeat as before and if it hums switch cables. If it still hums it might be the connection with your preamp. Try different ports, look at your settings. It might be the sub gain is set too high in your preamp. 3) If all of that fails to find the issue call JL Audio Tech support or maybe another member has some other suggestions. |
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