life span/failure rate of filter capacitors?

@audioman58   IMO capacitor dry out powered or not.  Unpowered capacitors are likely at lower temperature drying slower.   Electrolyte tends to eat out dielectric (aluminum oxide) reducing breakdown voltage, while presence of the voltage rebuilds this layer.  Gear (or caps in storage) unpowered for many years (likely >5), should be powered at lower voltage (like half) increasing it slowly (Variac) over at least a day.  Unfortunately SMPS often don't work at all below certain voltage and output capacitors cannot be fixed that way.

One thing well documented which at Coda very good engineering Doug -Nelson 
pass engineering team before Nelson went solo in mid 90s.

Coda always leave low voltage on  to keep the circuit warm and caps partially charged ,

warmup time is less, easier on the circuits , and everything last longer .

that’s why Coda gives a solid 10 years warranty.

bryston  May still give 20 years not sure on that  though.

(And I assume that the filter caps are the large electrolytic caps with the screw in terminals?)

I’m pretty sure you are speaking of power caps. Filter caps are the small uF units that filter out unwanted signal. The big (blue?) ones with threaded connectors are your high voltage supply for the valves.

Power caps are not as critical to sound as the filter caps.

@yesiam_a_pirate , I won’t lie about it--electronics/electrical is a weak subject for me. I do understand some of the basic fundamentals and I can remove & replace and solder and desolder, but I really do not understand much about the principle of operation of what I am working on.

So thank you for trying to help clarify this for me. Would you mind taking a quick read through this thread (this is what got me thinking about the subject, as I own basically the same 21 year old amp, except mine is in stereo, not a mono block . . . and unfortunately, the pics are no longer available that the OP had attached to his thread.) Some where in the thread, the cap that "exploded" was described as having screw in terminals, and it must have been filled with oil, and then someone remarks that he thinks that it is a "filter cap." A power cap does sound more like what I thought it was, and I have had the bottom off of my amp before and there are only four caps with screw in terminals and they are the largest caps in the amp. And I just did look at the owners manual, and now I believe that you are correct, as it says: "POWER SUPPLY CAPACITORS 4 - 560 MFD @ 400 volts".

@immatthewj  - if the amp is idle then those years typically do not count but it all depends on how much is was run for the 14 years.

 

Like I mentioned above, you can use a larger value but make sure they fit.  You can call Chris Johnson at Parts Connexion and ask his advice as he was the manufacturer of Sonic Frontiers products back in the day.

 

Actually power caps are not as critical but they do have an impact on sound especially on bass response and clarity.

Thanks for the input, @bigkidz  , I am thinking that I had it wrong because someone in the thread that I was referencing used the wrong nomenclature and, I am, in fact, referring to the power caps.

I have been to the Partsconnexion web site doing searches, and in the electrolytic cap section,I cannot find the value I am looking for (400 v, 560 microfarad) with screw in terminals.  I didn't get started until too late today, but I will give Partsconnexion a call tomorrow and see if they have some that I cannot find on their site.  If all else fails, I will try calling the Cary Direct sales department (because there is no telephone tech support there anymore) and see if they can or will sell me a set of power caps over the phone. 

The thread that I pasted above it the reason I think it might be time to change these caps, as it sounds like it is a nasty scene when one "explodes."

Since you are blowing fuses, the amp is pulling a lot of current during warmup time. If the filte r capacitors are the cause, then the rectifier tube (if the amp has one) is being stressed an could be damaged. Certainly, replace the caps and the rectifier tube (probably beginns with a 5) if you have one. If the rectifier is solid state, it's proably OK. Happy listening.