Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig

@lemonhaze - RE:

I am about to order some Teflon tubing and have the choice of 0.5mm or 1.0 mm wall thickness. Is one better for the purpose than the other?

I’m pretty confident that there would be little to no difference between the tubes, because there is minimal contact area between the wire and the teflon tube

Would it be a different case if the teflon were molded on the wire?

  • I think if you had two identical wires, but one had thicker layer of the same Teflon insulation, then it would not perform as well as well as the wire with a thinner layer of insulation

Hope that makes sense

Regards - Steve

@pindac, thanks for the Monosaudio suggestion but unfortunately their BNC connectors are multi-plated which I am trying to avoid. They claim:

4 Layer Plated Process :

1. Oxygen Free Copper Plated

2. Silver Plated

3. Palladium Plated

4. Rhodium Plated

 

I found these 2 which are more expensive but considering the Oyaide because it will be silver conductor to silver connector. I have not been able to find quality BNC sockets and also don't think I want to try and change out the socket on my Wadia DAC.  It appears to be impenetrable!

 

 

 

Steve,

have you tried 1 x solid core Neoteck Up OCC 12 AWG with original teflon or Cardas Chassis hook up 11.5 AWG wire Instead of 2 x 14 AWG bare OCC for signal In speaker cable

New guy here. Wow, what an amazing thread. I interested in going down the rabbit hole, but I have a few really basic questions that I couldn't find an answer to.

#1  When assembling the dual signal wire interconnects,  what is the reason for shielding the two wires? Why couldn't the wires be touching each other when incorporating the light twist?

#2   Is there a reccomended inner diameter when determining the use? Interconnects or speaker.

#3  After you have made the coil, what is the maximum amount the coil could be stretched  and still function correctly? (Unfortunately,  I have a speaker cable that would need to be 17 feet, so finding a rod long enough could be a problem)

My apologies if I missed where this was covered. Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers -- JB