@bdp24, are you sure about this. Last I heard some time ago their was a falling out, etc. etc.
Thanks though man, I’ll look into this further my friend. Having an Accent is not a problem.
:-)
Subwoofer - thoughts on Rythmic F12
I currently have two SVS SB-12 NSD subs that I got maybe 6 years ago when they were on a close out sale. I am upgrading my system and looking at the subs next - they make lots of sound and a good for movies but are often boomy or mushy for music - probably some room issues as well. I 90% care about music but will still use them for movies.
Do you think the Rythmic F12 would be an upgrade? Any other suggestions in the $1000 to $1300 range. I use line level inputs from a benchmark DAC3 for music. I would start with one and decide if I need another. Thanks.
@bdp24, are you sure about this. Last I heard some time ago their was a falling out, etc. etc. Thanks though man, I’ll look into this further my friend. Having an Accent is not a problem. :-) |
No @dabel, I’m just saying I hadn’t heard a word about a problem between TC Sounds and Rythmik. In fact, your mention of it is news to me. That doesn’t mean it’s not true, of course. But it does make me glad I got my woofers (four of the paper-cone 12’s optimized for open baffle use, two of the Rythmik aluminum-cone 15’s) when I did. I put the 12’s in a pair of open baffle W-frames built to Danny’s specs (viewable on the GR Research website), the 15’s in 4cu.ft. sealed enclosures of my own design (double-walled using 3/4" MDF, triple-layer baffle). I copied Jim Salk’s bracing (he builds his subs using the Rythmik kits, both 12" and 15"), the best I’ve ever seen. I put in braces every 6", front-to-back, side-to-side, and top-to-bottom. I find most hi-fi’s woefully lacking in the ability to make music visceral (too much head, not enough body). Good subs help a lot. |
Sorry for not being a little bit more specific in thee wee hours of the morning @bdp24, the show was last night :-) The falling out happened to be between TC & others, SVS specifically “I believe.” Wow, the Band killed it last night w/ PRAT btw. They were the last act at the Kensington Club. Take care of yourself, I’ve much respect for you. ;-)
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Hey everyone. Thanks for the advice. Very helpful. I ordered an F12 yesterday with the speaker level, LFE, and line in level inputs. Since Friday, I disconnected both subs, and have been liking the base better with just the speakers (F208) - I feel like I am picking up more detail in the bass notes and it is tighter. Super excited to try the new sub. I will ask this now but may start another thread. I will try it first with line level inputs out of a benchmark DAC3, but do you think I would notice any difference by using the speaker level inputs instead (connecting amp outputs to speakers and sub)? I doubt my ears could tell a difference, particularly at the low frequencies that I use the sub, but wanted to ask. |
In my opinion and experience, you are better off using a line level input. A speaker level signal will have a little more distortion and it will be converted back to a line level signal by the subs speaker level circuitry anyway, but it will still contain the distortion created by your main amps output. If you noticed more detail in the bass notes after disconnecting your current subs it maybe because you have the low pass filter on the subs set too high, enabling too much frequency overlap between your subs and your F208’s. The 3 db down point on the F208’s is 31 Hz, so you might be able to set the low pass filter slightly above that, but more than likely it will have to be set below that, which unfortunately doesn’t leave much for your subs to do. You may want to consider high passing your mains which would lessen their work load and also reduce unwanted cabinet vibrations created by F208’s low end drivers giving you even cleaner and more detailed sound from your mains. |