Bi-Amping Options B&W 801 Series 2


New to me Bowers & Wilkins floor-standing full-range monitors with two sets of binding posts.
Currently have dual MC252 solid-state amps (with autoformers) connected as follows: (1) to both bass drivers and (1) to midrange and treble drivers.

Meanwhile, I have a Rogue Audio Stereo 100 sitting idle (although I could hook it up to my vintage Warfedales). I’m wondering if I would be better served by bridging both the MC252s and putting them both on bass duty (500 Watts to each driver), and put the Stereo 100 to use driving the midrange and tweeters. What do you think?

Especially interested to hear from someone with experience driving this particular speaker, which sounds wonderful, by the way. My system is fully described (but not well pictured) under my profile in Virtual Systems. And, if anyone has a lead on an original Bass Alignment filter, I’m all ears.

128x128oldrooney

If you’re looking for more bass, a bigger amplifier is not going to do it. Do you need to add more base with the tone control. I bet you’re fine if you look at the meters, you’re probably only using about 10 watts during a typical listening session

I've got the 803 D3s. Just like mine yours dip down to 3 ohms.

They need current. The more the better.

You need the headroom for dynamic peaks.

Strap the Macs for mono for the bass and use the Rogue for the mid/treble.

For biamping you’ll need an external crossover or passive volume device to match the gain between top and bottom drivers. Is that what the Shiit Freya is for or can this be done with the Mac control processor?

You have a beautiful system, btw.

tomcarr is mistaken; your speakers do not dip to 3 Ohms; they have a minimum impedance of ~ 5.5 Ohms at ~ 10 KHz. This speaker has very benign impedance and phase angle curves which make for a very easy to drive speaker. Regrettably, I consider tomcarr to also be mistaken in stating that they need current. At chez xeno, our North Creek cross-overed Matrix 801 Series 2 speakers are driven by 75 lb. custom tube monoblocks that use 2 BL7 and 4 KT77 tubes, making about 100 watts. The system can play much louder than I would ever want.

Suffice it to say, I agree with russ69, try the Rogue 100. I bet it sounds great :).

Saw your system photos; I’m curious about your 801’s crossovers; what are they? They look great...good for you for upgrading from the week link factory x-overs. Oh, and forget about the bass alignment filter, at least the B&W one; it steals the incredible detail that these speakers have without it. The Krell version is thought by some to avoid this problem, I don’t know, but I do know that I’m not willing to put anything between these amazing speakers and our amazing amps other than Silversmith’s amazing Fidelium speaker cables :)

Enjoy your great speakers!

 

@russ69 A single MC-252 got better highs and better lows than the Rogue Stereo 100 from the Warfedales, in my opinion. I had issues with very dissonant distortion from an Electric Light Orchestra recording when running both the Freya and the Stereo 100, although the main issue was with my cartridge & Numark turntable & arm, as I recall.  Taking the Freya out of tube mode removed the distortion. I actually came to prefer the buffered mode for the Freya. 
The B&W have a lot more top end than my vintage Warfedales, ARs, and KLH models, so I was thinking that with the B&W speaker, I wouldn’t mind a bit of roll-off on the top end.