2. misc-audio
  3. 184643-114280

Subwoofer Options With No Spare Preout

I only have one preout on my preamp, and I’d like to add a pair of subs to my system. I’m curious peoples thoughts on the best method. I have a few options in mind that I’d like feedback on but if I’m missing an option let me know.  First option I’m considering is a pair or Rel’s which would be pretty straightforward to setup. I’ve also thought about getting a separate crossover with both high and low pass filters. I know in theory this is likely the best solution. I won’t be working with a large budget so something like a Sublime Acoustic K231 is probably the best I could manage. The likes of JL audio, Bryston, and Marchand are bit out of budget.  This would allow me to use any subs I’d like, possibly even some DIY passives. The last option I’m considering is simply splitting the one preout and running one channel to each sub. I know it’s not ideal but I do have considerable excess gain in my setup even though my pre only has 9db. I never get past 10 o’clock but generally at high volume I’m around 9 o’clock. 
 

My system right now consists of Audio Mirror Reflection monoblocks, a Canary C630 pre, Totem Arros, and a Bluesound Node.  The room is 9ft by 11ft with 8 foot ceilings. I’m still uncertain if my next purchase will be subs or a new digital front end. Both will happen before to long because I need more bass and I know the Node is holding back my system considerably.  Anyways any thoughts or opinions are much appreciated. 

brylandgoodman
erik_squires
16,134 posts
 

Hi OP:

The cap provides a first order high pass filter. You want to use a cap which provides the same impedance as your amp’s input impedance. So if the amp is 47k your cap should also be 47k at the crossover point, which I recommend no lower than 80 Hz. With those low efficiency speakers this will greatly reduce distortion and make your amp play much louder.

I believe this just happens to be 0.047 uF for you. I recommend Jupiter copper foils.

This simplifies subwoofer integration, and will double the apparent size of your amps. Also, most people report greatly improved soundstage and reduced distortion this way.

PS - There is a myth audiophiles have that they should buy a subwoofer only for 1 octave.  Every single time I've convinced those audiophiles to try the alternative they never go back, not just for the bass but for the overall improvement in detail, soundstage, and dynamic range.

lak's avatar
Ag insider logo xs@2x
lak
4,646 posts
 

I like the REL's very much and second jjss49 suggestion.

erik_squires
16,134 posts
 

Oh, the Duelund JDM-Cu are a steal at around $30 each from Parts Connexion.

ieales's avatar
ieales
1,201 posts
 

Pass on the RELs as they do not have sufficient controls to integrate properly. IMO REL now markets bling as opposed to decades back when they were excellent.

Required controls are continuously variable XO frequency, variable XO slopes, continuous phase and polarity inversion. Without these controls only physical movement of the sub enables proper integration. Martin-Logan X series have the requisite controls.

It’s simple to build a HP xover for the mains which enables proper integration. Rolling the bottom octave out of the mains effectively increases main amplifier power.

Subs have significant output into the mids and are localizable. Therefore they must be coherent with the mains. The easiest way to achieve this is to have them in the same area as the mains.

See ieLogical SubterraneanHomesickBlues for more information on sub integration

grislybutter
3,121 posts
 

that stuff is elaborate....

https://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/loudspeakers.html

from you sub link

More to discover