isonic CS6.1-PRO ultrasonic record cleaner


For those considering ultrasonic record cleaning options, this is a brief re-cap of my experience with my new isonic unit purchased 3 months ago.  I'd long considered buying a US unit having cleaned my approx 600-700 collection over 20 years with a VPI 16.5 wet/vac system.  I was not interested in spending $4k to clean one record at a time, nor $2-$3k for a unit requiring a time consuming, multiple step process, also to clean one record at a time.  Off the bat, two features of the isonic caught my attention: while not cheap ($1k), it is competitively priced AND it cleans several records at a time.  Also, isonic didn't start their business to sell record cleaners, they started building ultrasonic cleaners for commercial use and eventually began building units specifically to clean vinyl.  They adapted an existing, proven technology and manufacturing process with which they had a ton of experience and adapted it to a unit that cleans records. Cutting to the chase, and most  importantly, does this unit do what the manufacturer claims?  To my eyes and ears, yes. There's no doubt records come out of the machine clean, dry, and dust free.  No longer do I feel like my stylus is acting like a dredging tool while playing a record.  After VPI cleanings, when finished playing a record side, I always had a bit residue or dust on the stylus, always. Not after US cleaning.  Records sound clearer, less noisy, and in one case a record I was about to toss actually became listenable (not perfect as it had obviously been abused, but I decided to keep it).  Everything about the sound is improved, everything.  Aesthetically speaking, they come out shiny.

Additional benefits:  Jerry Van answers the phone, he's available and very helpful.  They ship freight pre-paid and if you live outside of Illinois, you may not have to pay sales tax.  

The motor unit and spindle which holds the records has two speeds - one for cleaning, the other for spin drying (600RPM). The unit comes with a shroud to keep water from flying off the records into the room while spin drying.  No need to remove the records between cleaning and drying cycles, no need to ever touch the record surfaces.  Finished records are 100% dry and require no hand or towel drying. 

The spacers used between the records also serve as label protectors, labels remain perfectly dry. If you feel you need more space between records to enhance cavitation, use two spacers instead of one (which I do).  I've settled on 5 records at a time, instead of the advertised 8-10.  You can buy 7" record adapters if needed.  I'm not sure about 78's.  

The company claims you can use filtered tap water, which I do.  No need to buy gallons of distilled water.  Based on my experience, I feel no need to use anything other than clean tap water.  The unit comes with an in-tank filtering system which can be easily disassembled and cleaned.  I do so after every cleaning session (20- 30 records at a whack). It also has a de-gassing feature, 

Other benefits:  you need only two items that don't come with the unit:  a bucket to drain the tank into and a water pitcher to fill it with.  You do have to drain the tank in between each cleaning cycle - the spin dry cycle occurs in an empty tank, leaving everything else in place. Everything else you need to use the isconic is in the box.  The cleaning cycles range from 3 minutes to 15 minutes, you choose.  The drying cycle is long, but you can interrupt it if you know the records are dry. Humidity and ambient temp will cause that to vary. The tank has a variety of heat settings; I set it at the lowest temp and just use warm tap water.  

As with everything else new, there is a bit of a learning curve.  Nothing major but a little experience is helpful.  Couple things I feel I should mention:  1) the motor assembly has forward and rearward positions in its bracket:  rearward to tip the spindle up to load it and to lower records into the bath, and also rearward to tip it back up to remove the records.  The motor/spindle assembly has to be pushed forward in its bracket after the records have been loaded, secured and dropped into the bath.  If you don't push the motor assembly forward (it can be a little sticky) then the front bearing (opposite the motor) at the end of the spindle won't rest on the bracket on the opposite side of the tank, which is important. 2) Whether necessary or not, before draining the tank I unplug the filter.  The motor and filter operate on a split wire A/C cord, the tank on its own power line, you need two power outlets.  I just don't like the idea of a filter pumping or operating when there's no water in the tank.  It may or may not matter, I don't know.  3) if you add too much cleaning solution you'll generate too much foam - 1/2 a capful per tank is plenty;  the company is also testing and offering non-foaming soap formulations. 4) read the manual !  I usually don't read manuals, which is not very smart, but the quick sheet and full manual are worth reading, I'm certainly not covering all you need to know in this commentary. 5)  right or wrong, what I feel most confident in is this, as all my records have been previously cleaned with the VPI and are not filthy by any means: a 5 or 8 minute cleaning cycle with soap, drain half the tank then add back in a half tank of fresh, clean water (minus the soap) and do another 3-5 minute rinse cycle, then drain the tank and spin dry. Of course for the perfectionist, just drain the tank fully and run the rinse cycle with ALL fresh, clean water, though Jerry says a rinse cycle is not necessary. The degasser feature only operates with cycles set at 10 minutes or longer.  6) let the motor rest for a few minutes in between cleaning cycles, it will get slightly warm  spinning at 600 RPM when drying records for several minutes.  7) if I buy a garage sale record that looks like it was used to serve pizza would I put it directly into my isonic?  I'm gifting my VPI to a friend, so my answer is this:  probably not, though it would most likely work just fine on a 15 minute setting (after which I'd look at the filter core).  I'd probably clean it in the sink with a microfiber cloth and some soap first, just to gently remove the heaviest dirt and grime.  8) at the end of a session, disassemble the filter unit and clean the core - I use a soft old toothbrush and some warm water.  It is interesting to see exactly what has been removed from your records. 9) I believe the manual says you can remove the filter from the bath prior to spin drying - I've not been able to do that because the front record is to close to it.  Besides, as I said, I just unplug it before emptying the tank to spin dry. Left in place it is not in the way. 

I'm happy with my investment and, no, I've no affiliation with isonic other than being a satisfied customer.  I can't speak to long-term performance or durability, though just using and handling the unit for the last 3 months or so, it feels, looks, and performs like it will last.  If there's a problem I'm confident that isonic will be helpful in resolving it.  

 

 

 

markmendenhall

@drbond,

There is no best.  Most any decent UT machine with the appropriate attention to the details can be made to yield excellent results. Are side firing transducers better than bottom firing, that depends on the tank volume.  Just keep in mind the basic rules:

-Power required to produce cavitation is proportional to kHz, so 120kHz needs more power than 48kHz.

-The cavitation bubble size is inversely proportional to kHz so a 120kHz produces smaller cavitation bubbles (and more of them) than 48kHz.  But the larger the bubble, the greater the cavitation energy.

There are many other variables that come into play, so it's often hard to compare one UT machine to another.  But the lower (<~60kHz) UT units are sensitive to tank flow and if flow in the tank >50% volume per min, cavitation intensity drops quickly.  So, spinning a lot of records in a tank can negatively affect the UT cavitation intensity.  The book addresses this in detail.   However, spin fast enough (I have not analyzed this), and the need for cavitation can decrease.  

Also, small tank volumes need more power/watts than larger tanks because of the tank interior surface area vs volume ratio.  But the KLAudio with four 50W side firing (2/side), 2.5-L volume and 40kHz is a powerful machine.  And the Degritter with four 75W side firing (2/side), 1.4-L volume and 120kHz is a powerful machine.  

Otherwise, there is power rating, and then what actually gets into the tank.  Conservation of energy applies, most of the UT energy ultimately should go to heating the tank fluid.  The KLAudio uses an external pump/reservoir/filter that keeps temps under control.  The Degritter has a cool-down mode to prevent overheating the fluid (>95F) and I have designed cooling systems for people using the Elmasonic P-series because in serial use cleaning lots of records, they heat the water - they are powerful machines.  

Devil is in the details.

Can this machine just clean constantly instead of rinse and dry? I have something else  that I can use for a rinse and dry. 

As a side note we used a window washer who does residential does the whole job himself and has been doing it for 20+years. He did some windows I had just cleaned a week prior and it  was noticeably cleaner. His secret ingredient?  Water. And a really good squeegee so he does no wiping on the glass. 

iSonic CS6.2-Pro Motorized Ultrasonic 

I'm getting this unit over the weekend and will post some results.