Power cable from wall socket to power strip

That cable is probably the most important cable. It feeds multiple components. As suggested, use a thicker gauge power cable and one that is designed to transfer the power cleanly.

ozzy

Yes. I would recommend a AudioQuest Hurricane, if that is in your budget.

My dealer friend had brought one over for my power amp. In about two seconds I was convinced… I had been audioning power cords for a year, and each, while having some positive attributes also attenuated some aspect. So I ordered one… a one meter. My friend said the two meters would be better… “you get more power conditioning with the extra length”. Well, I ended up with a one meter and a two meter. So I tried them over a week each. He was absolutely correct. The longer 2 meter was quieter and more detailed (yeah, those two are kind of the same thing). This is the way to look at them.

For the details of why. The founder of Shunyata has an article or video somewhere on his site that explains how looking at power like plumbing is wrong and explains how to look at it and why it works. Good explaination although I am a much bigger fan of Transparent, Cardas, and Audio Quest power cords.

   All I can say is it did for me. I use a Richard Gray power conditioner. I also replaced my outlets with 20 amp Hubble. I have a 15 to 20 amp plug adapter and tried all my extra power cords. I then purchased a Shunyata Venom HC 20 amp cord and it bested all my other cords. Please note that I have a modest system and I run low power tubes into high efficiency speakers. Considering most places have a 30 day return policy, give it a try. Happy Listening, Mike B. 

Everything matters.  Full stop.  Read reviews and pick a PC that exhibits the sound characteristics that would combine well for your system/tastes.  Buy used and you’ll save a bundle, and if you buy wisely you can turn around and sell it for little/no loss  if for some reason they don’t work out and just repeat the process til you find “the one.”
A couple other meaningful and cost-effective upgrades would be to pick up something like a used Audience AR1p power conditioner that come up used on hifishark every month or so for only around $250.  Using that to feed your Wiremold will effectively give your whole system very good power conditioning for a song (this is what I did BTW and also use a Wiremold power strip).  Last, upgrading the wall outlet can also make a nice improvement for relatively very little cost.  Here’s a good one to consider…

https://www.cruzefirstaudio.com/maestro/the-maestro-outlet

Hope this helps, and best of luck.

lots of misunderstanding in this area.  

1.  Power cannot be "cleaned".  it isn't just a nice sine wave with some noise the can be "filtered" out.  the sine wave coming into your house looks like crap.  Here is a link to a photo of a scope of the power coming into my house-chopped tops.  4+% thd.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/f3e4gqJ5m6QAqDLG8

2.  Power cables don't deal with noise.  Power cables deal with power.  Adequate power.  (I've given lots of other discussion before about the difference between nameplate power and short burst power transients to support base and dynamics so I won't go into that here).

3. You can't fix power downstream of a bad power component.   Put a resistor in a wire. you can't put an "unresistor" downstream of it.

4.  Power strips are almost always resistors.  The thermal breaker in their overload function is WORSE than a fuse and fuses are horrible for high quality sound.  Tiny wires inside.  Avoid.

Best of luck,

Jerry